During the last week in October, tourists flock to Mexico to observe and photograph the "picturesque" practices of "quaint" indigenous Mexicans. (The historical roots of this celebration date back to the pre-Hispanic cultures.)

The idea of family reunions in cemeteries, with music, food and gaiety, strikes foreigners as rather strange. They look in disbelief at shops filled with skulls and calaveras (skeletons) made of various materials, dressed as doctors, judges, teachers, tennis players and even prostitutes. The calaveras engage in all kinds of activities from dancing and drinking to hair styling and singing, No profession or pastime is spared, and their human-like antics draw smiles from those passing by. Actually, Mexicans view skeletons as funny and friendly, not spooky and scary.

This concept of the Danse Macabre, which was brought from Europe, was adopted by the indigenous Mexicans and fused with their prehispanic customs and attitudes, resulting in a uniquely Mexican custom.

Traditions associated with the Day of the Dead reflect the Mexican belief in the duality of life and death. While they mourn and miss their dead loved ones, they also believe that death is just an extension of life. It's part of a natural progression, not an end. The dead continue to exist and return annually to visit their loved ones. Many of the customs, such as home altars (ofrendas) and cemetery vigils, are to help them find their way and to welcome them home.

A home altar (ofrenda) usually includes flowers, candles, photos and other remembrances of the departed one, their favorite foods and beverage, and other items such as cigarettes (if they smoked), and a perhaps a tribute to their favorite pastime or career. For example, if uncle Pepe liked to fish or was a fisherman, the family would place a skeleton of a man fishing on the altar. These miniature skeletons made of clay or paper mache especially for this purpose, are widely sold in area markets in the days leading up to Day of the Dead. Because they will be hungry after their long journey home, special offerings of food are also included, especially decorated "pan de muerto" (bread of the dead). If the altar is for an "angelito" (dead child), it will include favorite toys and white flowers. All of these items are meant to tell the returning dead that they have indeed found the right place and are welcome.

In a way, Day of the Dead is a misnomer. The principal celebrations actually take place over a period of 3 days beginning October 31 and ending on November 2. In addition, special categories of deceased are honored on preceding days. For example, on October 28, those who died in accidents, suicides, homicides and other violent deaths are honored. October 29 is for the unbaptized, and October 30 is for lonely souls.

At 3 p.m. on October 31, the angelitos (children who died after being baptized) arrive to visit their families and depart at the same hour on November 1, to permit the adults to visit. From that time, until 2:00 P.M. on November 2, families clean and decorate the grave sites and tombs in the cemeteries and spend time with family members buried there, sharing offerings of food and drink with friends and relatives.

There are many web sites/pages related to Day of the Dead. These are some good ones:

http://muertos.palomar.edu/dayofthedead.htm

http://www.mexconnect.com/mex_/travel/mdiaz/mdmuertos.html

http://olvera-street.com/dia_de_los_muertos.html

http://www.holidays.net/halloween/muertos.htm

http://www.azcentral.com/ent/dead/history/flashcards.html

All of my journals from this trip can be found at: http://www.worldisround.com/browse/NorthAmerica/Mexico/Guanajuato/