End of March to the end of April 2001. Sicily away from the blah of Palermo, and on yer bike was, in hindsight, it. Dont miss Villa Romana nr Piazza Armerina, and watch the dudes running "Tours" up Etna from Camping Jonio in lovely Catania ("if we get out of here without asbestosis, asthma or a puncture, God is smiling."). Get the bus, cos both end up in the carpark of the Refuge.

Read the history - it took me a while to see past all the indifference to the urban environment. At least if you drop the chain, you only ... (more)