Malta is an independent (1964) republic within the British Commonwealth and the European Community (2004). It's located about mid-way between Italy and Tunisia, sort of like a pebble that's been kicked there by the Italian "boot". Its mild winter climate, good infrastructure, unpretentious people and tranquil life-style are reasons why it's long been a popular vacation spot for British and other northern Europeans, and others going there to learn English. It's only now beginning to be discovered by North Americans, who can reach it via Swiss, British Airways, or Alitalia.

A PRELIMINARY SNAPSHOT: The nation consists of three islands: rocky, rugged and historic Malta; tiny, green, fertile Gozo; and minuscule sandy Comino. Together they are about the size of Montreal Island or Martha's Vineyard. The total population is similar to that of Calgary or Albuquerque, but there are many more expats living in Australia and North America. Everyone speaks English and Maltese, and because they are so close to Sicily, many speak Italian too.

I was initially attracted by Malta's incredibly rich history. Located at about the geographic centre of the Med, it has been of great strategic importance to both colonizers and armies for two millennia. It has played key roles in every European conflict from Roman times to World War II; though often occupied, it has never been subjugated. It's safe to say that no other country of comparable size offers such a kaleidoscope of historical artifacts and vestiges of past stuggles. While every era is represented as far back as pre-history, the places of greatest interest to modern travellers go back "only" about 500 years.

It's incredibly easy to visit. Although it's rocky, it's almost entirely flat, so hiking is a breeze. Hotels are inexpensive, and many have no "singles supplement". Buses (pre-WWII "historic monuments on wheels") go everywhere for only pennies. A regular and inexpensive ferry service connects Malta with Gozo.

THE PEOPLE: The Maltese are law-abiding, tenacious, friendly, independent, pious, family-oriented, and fiercely proud of their ability to absorb wave after wave of occupiers without being culturally overwhelmed. They are almost entirely middle-class and hard-working. While they welcome visitors, they have no tolerance at all for drugs, crime, porno, or the vices one finds in many tourist destinations.

TOWNS AND EMPLOYMENT: When the Knights of Saint John of Jerusalem were chased from the Middle East by the Turks over 500 years ago they settled on an undeveloped largely Moorish island, whose capital was tiny walled Mdina, known today as the "silent city" because vehicles aren't permitted. After repulsing repeated Turkish attacks, they set out to build a new capital as a planned city and an impregnable fortress. Today Valletta a modern but quiet small town, filled with shops, government and other offices, museums, Parliament, a small park here and there, and the battle-scarred imposing Fort St Elmo, which is now the police academy and a popular movie set. You can easily tour the entire city on foot in a day.

Tourism is the main source of livelihood for many Maltese, particularly in smaller towns and resorts along the coast north of Valletta. A major employer in suburban Senglea is the drydock, one of the world's largest. Fishing is also important, and the village of Marsaxlokk is famous for its luzzu boats, with eyes painted on the bows to watch for dangers and sea monsters. On Gozo agriculture is the main activity, while Comino is visited only for its sandy beaches.

In two weeks of perfect shirt-sleeves February weather I didn't manage to visit all the spots of interest, but did see quite a few. There's far too much to put into one article, so this is just the first of a series.