It started off as a coast to coast four-wheel-drive odyssey across Australia's top end. My brother and I were going to take most of February off and drive from Perth to Brisbane via sights such as the Hammersely Gorge, Ningalloo reef, Kakadu and the gulf country. From the rainy shores of England this seemed like an ideal way to spend a month in the sunshine.

Unfortunately in February the top end weather is "inclement". Average daily temperatures in the mid to high 40's, one hundred percent humidity, rainfall in the ... (more)