You feel like you're the only person on the barrier reef living on a dive boat, in the spaces in between the packed dive schedule.

The typical day begins with a wakeup call at 5.30, in time for the day's first dive at 6, around sunrise. Some say this is the best dive of the day, as you can see night denizens before they go to sleep, just as the diurnal sea creatures begin to stir.

Breakfast is at 7, after which those leaving that day can vacate their rooms and pay their bar tabs. At 8, there is another morning dive, and ... (more)