On a 2005 Antarctica trip, I also spent some time in Santiago, Chile. Across the Rio Mapocho from the city center is Barrio Recoleta. It gives the appearance of less money (and no chain stores) than you see just a few blocks to the south in the city center, but a walk through its business district reveals a lively, colorful neighborhood that tourists are likely to miss.

Mark Wasson, http://www.markwasson.com > Trips has detailed summaries of my trips