I awoke to what I thought was turbulence. I was sitting in what felt like an airline business class and I had mentally prepared myself for a long (>15 hour) journey. When my senses returned I confirmed the lengthy journey but the destination, instead of being Singapore, Bangkok or Shanghai, was Chicago, and instead of being 30 to 40 thousand feet in the air I was hugging the rails.

Riding the train was an idea that occurred to me while driving ten thousand miles on a recent cross country adventure. While I enjoy driving, I thought it might be nice to relax, to read, to write, to watch, to listen. I am not always comfortable and able to relax with someone else at the wheel so the train seemed to be a viable alternative. I am now recounting my adventures while riding the California Zephyr bound for Emeryville and currently slicing through the beautiful snow covered Colorado canyons on the waning days of my North American Rail Pass (The Pass).

Being an Internet disciple, the obvious way to discover more about the train was www.amtrak.com. As a casualty of the startup boom with plenty of time and little money, Specials and Promotions was the next obvious step. The Pass promised 2 countries and 30 days to see them. This would be Amtraks version of a Eurail Pass! Why hadnt I heard of this sooner? Why didnt all Americans know about it and experience it at least once in a lifetime? At $475 ($425 with an AAA discount) I would find out for myself.

I started in Denver. No, make that Boulder. I had to get to Union Station near downtown Denver and I didnt recall seeing the parking expanses found at airports. RTD has a multi-level Park & Ride structure in Boulder next to the expressway. With a phone call I determined that I could park 30-days for free and that the B Express would deliver me directly to the station for $3.50. Perfection. With comfortable buses at regular intervals I was soon screaming down the commuter lane with ease. This could work.

I arrived at the station with plenty of time to spare. A quick call on the cell phone and a local friend was on her way to join me for dinner at the Redfish restaurant next to the station. There were only a few other people in the station which gave the lone attendant plenty of time to process the ticket, though I needed a reservation from The Pass office and their 800 number. I called the number and survived the hold queue only to find out their office in Philadelphia had just closed (10pm eastern). I bit my tongue and hung up the phone. When I returned to the ticket window the attendant had done some research and determined he could issue the ticket as long as I confirmed my reservations at the Chicago station the next evening. Dinner was great: Cajun food with a good friend and multiple beers. The train arrived and soon I was on a smooth comfortable eastbound roll.

Chicago, center of Americas train universe I arrived and secured my reservation which included the next days round trip to St. Louis. I had decided on the way to Chicago that a two-day detour on the Texas Eagle would be a good way to exercise The Pass and after another 800 call and 20-minutes of hold musak I was queued up. One stop at the ticket window and I had tickets in hand. They also informed me that there was a Holiday Inn two blocks away.

Jo, a 4-year-old Gordon Setter, usually joins me on our road trips and we end up staying at Holiday Inns because they are great about canines. So even without Jo I walked a brisk sub-zero two blocks to our friendly inn and settled in. I started the coffee, fired up the laptop and dialed-in to the local America Online access number. A small laptop has become essential gear on an American adventure. In most other countries Internet cafes are common and inexpensive whereas in America they are still, for the most part, side shows at coffee shops. I checked all correspondence from family, friends and associates and even announced my on-line presence via Yahoo Messenger. I can be anywhere in the world but once on-line I am, for all intents and purposes, back home in my family room. I did venture out to the base of Sears Tower and a nearby El station. Another cell phone call had lined up late night coffee with a friend working at Loyola. I figured out the loop and how to get to Loyola and soon I was in a perfect little diner with a good friend and a hot cup o coffee. The 1am ride back to downtown and a 6-7 block walk back to the hotel added a frozen face to a tired body and I slipped into a comfortable coma.

St. Louis From Chicago its a simple ride through suburbia. The train station is located outside of downtown and next to Busch Stadium. I walked to the nearby Sheraton where my homeless looks, a gold Starwood Preferred Guest card and a smile provided a 50% discount on a beautiful room. The extra charge for the high-speed internet access was a bargain for checking eMail/Messenger and planning the next few days. The return to Chicago was scenery in reverse and I met a gentleman in the dining car who had worked with my father.

Cincinnati The weekend was approaching and a romantic reunion was waiting. The challenge here was that the Cardinal to Cincinnati and beyond is not daily. The Pass includes motorcoach connections so a Greyhound bus carried me from Chicago to Cincinnati. While waiting for the bus, a deli in the station provided dinner and in the station entranceway I relived a scene from the Untouchables where Costner saves a baby rolling down the stairs while gunning down mobsters. The bus arrived and reminded me that an occasional bus ride helps to keep in perspective the luxury that is trains and airplanes. My friend picked me up at 3am and the remainder of the weekend may be found someday in an entirely different type of adventure article.

Connectivity (a side tip) On my previous walk to Sears Tower I noticed a Kinkos store 2 blocks from Union Station. Before my bus to Cincinnati I walked those two blocks and took advantage of their laptop station. The high-speed connection is free (and delightfully fast) and printouts (i.e. maps and directions created from www.mapquest.com) are available for a fee. I was able to return to my family room for a few minutes, immediately followed by a trip to the top of the Sears Tower and an amazing full moon view.

Pittsburgh I made it here through Columbus on another Greyhound bus. Here again, an occasional bus ride helps to keep in perspective the luxury that is trains and airplanes. My uncle picked me up at 11pm and drove me to the suburbs. They are accustomed to my frequent unannounced appearances and ask no questions. Two comfortable days later I am recharged and ready to resume the adventure.

Philadelphia My uncle dropped me off at the local train station and I headed to Philadelphia. After arriving I walked towards Pennsylvania University. I stopped for a calzone and a few beers and used my cell phone to dial a few hotel chains. A few more blocks and I was camped at the Inn at Penn, checking eMail/Messenger and using the web to find a good hotel rate in Baltimore.

Baltimore A short ride from Philly and a light rail to downtown. I got lucky and get off the light rail a block from the Holiday Inn. I slipped into a car show at the convention center as they are setting up then walked over to and through the Inner Harbor Waterfront. I had lunch and enjoyed one of the few advantages to traveling in subzero weather no lines.

New Jersey/Philadelphia I arrived at the Newark Airport station and rode the light rail to the rental car office. I used a previously earned certificate for a free 3-day weekend rental and a drove around the NJ/NY suburbs. After a night in Nyack I drove south because it felt right. Past Princeton, Trenton, Philadelphia and to a Motel 6 in King of Prussia. I used to live and work there so the next day I revisited old hangouts. I stopped at a Kinkos and found an Internet rate at the downtown Philadelphia Crown Plaza (a member of the Priority Club/Holiday Inn family). I watched the Super Bowl at the Irish Pub and back at the hotel bar while drowning my Raider sorrows with pints and debating an impending Iraqi war with a Nicaraguan art dealer.

NYC I drove from Philadelphia back to the Newark airport. No one was at the Amtrak ticket counter and I missed the train into NYC. I hopped a NJ Transit train and was asked to get off at Newarks Penn Station since I had an Amtrak ticket. Rather than wait for the next Amtrak train, I took a Path train into the city and the Red Line number 9 subway to downtown. A walked around ground zero and the sub-zero weather was oddly appropriate. I had worked with clients in the WTC and its absence is chilling. The Duane Street Kinkos had customer service issues so I walked across Chinatown and down to the lower east side. I checked eMail/Messenger at the Water/Wall streets Kinkos and then raced to the midtown Penn Station and a train to Connecticut.

Connecticut I arrived in Hartford late. I used my cell phone to dial Kinkos 800 number and their automated store locator. After entering the phone number from a nearby pay phone I received the location of their nearest store which was only a few blocks away. I walked there, set-up, checked eMail and browsed the hotel web sites. I found another great rate at the Crown Plaza a few blocks away and soon I was in their hotel bar for a remarkable chicken sandwich and a few beers. After a great nights rest, their shuttle took me back to the train station where fate interceded.

Construction at the Hartford train station meant both north and southbound trains were using the same platform. I was downstairs working with the ticket agents to get a variety of tickets out of the system. I had called The Pass 800 number that morning (and patiently listened to the musak) and made reservations to St. Albans, VT, a bus to Montreal, and trains to Toronto and Windsor. While the Amtrak web site appears that you CAN visit 2 countries, you MUST visit 2 countries. Canada here I come. A few minutes before the scheduled arrival time, I heard the train upstairs. I hiked the stairs and boarded the train, the wrong train. The southbound train was late and happened to show up when the northbound was expected. I did not hear the announcement and no one asked me where I was headed. Come on, an honest mistake, and I wasnt the only one.

Washington DC I arrived in the countrys capital as George was giving his State of the Union. Union Station is a must see and I figured a great place for dinner and a 3-hour layover. I walked outside to peer over to the lighted capitol and I noticed the security everywhere. There was a helicopter hovering motionless over the station and several others patrolling. Terrorists - the modern day enemy. The Dubliner pub across the street was closed and as fate would have it so were most of the restaurants in the station. I gratefully devoured a Big and Tasty meal from McDs and settled into the Capitol Grill for a few beers and the post speech analysis. My southbound train to warmer weather, the Silver Meteor, would leave at midnight.

Savannah The train station here was not even close to downtown. A taxi took me to the nearest Kinkos identified by their 800 number. After checking eMail and finding a hotel, I rode the bus downtown and checked into the Mulberry, a historical hotel on the Riverfront (a member of the Priority Club/Holiday Inn family). A had a short rest, then a Riverfront walk and another amazing meal at the Cotton Exchange, with a few pints.

Jacksonville I boarded the morning train in Savannah and made it to Jacksonville. Here again the train station was not close downtown and I had a three hour layover. I started to walk and an already occupied taxi offered to add me for $5. When we arrived at the downtown Greyhound station I asked for the nearest Kinkos and it was two blocks away. I returned to my virtual family room for a while. I walked through Jacksonville Landing and after a tasty deli lunch I headed back to the bus station where I had learned that for 75 cents I could ride the McLeod bus back to the train station. I enjoyed the suburban bus tour and soon I was on the Sunset Limited headed west.

New Orleans A tremendous place to hang out but just another layover on this particular adventure. I had three hours and a short walk to Kinkos to check in. On the way back I picked up supplies and a souvenir which I mailed at the post office next to the train station, and re-boarded with minutes to spare.

Houston I arrived near downtown but it was close to midnight. After a short walk downtown I discovered the nearest Kinkos was in a closed office building. I used my cell phone to call the hotel chains and finally hailed a cab to the airport. On my way to a Marriott I spotted a La Quinta (dog friendly and comfortable) so I stopped the cab and settled in. The plan was to take their shuttle to the airport in the morning and use another 3-day weekend car rental certificate to explore Texas. After a weekend of driving around Texas, the journey north back to Denver through a combination of trains and buses would be a long one. Rates flying from Houston to Denver are reasonable and I left myself the option of flying back after the weekend.

I awoke the next morning to the Columbia disaster. I didnt feel like wandering Texas. I flew home and appreciated the palatial airport and spaced-aged flight complete with first class upgrade.

Boulder/Intermission From Denvers International Airport I was able to take the AB Express bus back to the Boulder Park n Ride. I had a chance to pick up the mail and to spend time with Jo. With the early return I could spend a few days recharging and still make it out to the west coast and back. I was too comfortable, too relaxed. I put off the restart until I had only two days remaining on The Pass. I could at least make it out to California and create a new challenge to make it back.

Emeryville I was now a veteran and getting back to Denvers Union Station was trivial. Despite ticketing challenges by trainee agents I was back on the California Zephyr, this time headed west. The view was amazing and the conductor provided color commentary. We saw canyons reserved for train passengers with rivers determined to flow around frozen obstacles. The Rockies, the Salt Flats, Donner Pass through the Sierra Nevadas and a bayside cruise into Emeryville, this is what railroad travel is all about.

Fremont After a timely and magnificent dinner at the international Emery Bay Market next to the train station, I headed for home. I thought it would be slow going along the East Bay but the Capitol Corridor was a speeding bullet. I always knew the train ran through my home town but was never quite sure why. Here I would experience another aspect of a city I thought I already knew.

The North American Rail Pass - Everyone should do it at least once in their lifetimes. Accommodations are more spacious and security isnt as strict. Seat belts are not required and surfing down the aisles is challenging and exciting. Dining includes community seating and introduces a variety of interesting people and there is also a Sightseer Lounge car with a well-stocked and affordable snack bar. The train staff harkens back to an era when service was paramount. And the price?... even with a week-long intermission I saved 50% by using the 30-day pass.

Touring America by train isnt as easy or as cheap as Europe but that just means a different preparation and approach. I prefer not to preplan and like to make last minute decisions while still enjoying specials. The Internet is a valuable and timely communication and research tool. An obsession? Perhaps, but when I am in a foreign place nothing beats a momentary return to my family room to check messages and having answers at my fingertips. Laptops are now a commodity and getting one with the basics can be cheap. Cell phones with national plans are not so cheap but worth the investment if used wisely. Many thanks to Kinkos for providing space and a connection, to the Priority Club (Holiday Inn/Crown Plaza) for a place to stay, and to Amtrak for the ride!

Now how do I get back to Boulder?