First up...Carnaval in Oruro, Bolivia. LA DIABLADA. This is the only Carnaval Celebration protected as a heritage event, due to it's indigenous influence. The theme revolved around hundreds of dancing devils (which are banished theatrically at the end). The parade went on, continuously, for over 48 hours. Bands, dancers, costumes...it didn't break for 2 full days and nights. The town of Oruro is quite small, but experiences a massive influx of tourists (from all over South America and the world) for this weekend. Accomodation fills up quickly - I ended up spending 3 nights in an internet-cafe-turned-hotel. Oh yeah, and absolutely everyone (including kindly old grandmothers) carries an arsenal of water balloons, water guns, and canned foam. It's war, with a spectacular dancing backdrop.

Following Carnaval were some adventures in the Potosi mines. Potosi is the highest city in the world at almost 4200m, and the city's history is based in the mines of Cerro Rico. The mines are dangerous - caveins kill many miners every year, and lung disease kills even more. The mine shafts are contaminated with arsenic, asbestos, and sulphide complexes. They're also stifflingly hot. 3 hours was more than enough of an experience for me. Playing with dynamite was fun, though!

(Feb/March 2003)