The flight through three continents was something else. Leaving at midnight and basically chasing darkness, it was a shame I couldn't see India, but I felt the turbulence over the Hindu Kush and that kind of summed up Afghanistan for me, even if I was 30,000 feet over it. Watching the lights of Russian hamlets was nice as we went around the Urals. Two hours in Frankfurt airport does not really count as an experience of Europe, but after spending two and a half months in Asia, seeing hordes of six-foot-plus Germans in long black overcoats was kind of a culture check in itself. (It was -2 degrees outside so I wasn't going to bear it..)
The flight to Cairo was special. Snow had bucketed down on the Alps and had pretty much accounted for green expanses throughout Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, Albania and Northern Greece. Then to traverse the Med and descend over the Nile, watching irrigation systems in their full majesty as they delivered water to previously deserted areas, was fascinating.
Well I was excited when I flew into Cairo. First time in Africa, and in an Arab state, and my first reaction was a let-down because the airport is ugly and the stark light-brown concrete buildings littering the outskirts of the city did not appeal either.
That changed once I got into the place. It was fascinating. There is a liveliness to the streets which has a real charm. The ancient architecture around the city is remarkable, I was happily lost for hours in certain parts. Highlights would be the walk from Old Cairo, where the Christian Coptic church - an orthodox order that broke away from Rome in the 4th century - has some magnificent old churches, through to the Citadel which Saladin created in the 12th century to overlook what was already then an impressive city. At the Citadel myself and Dmitri from Moscow took in an energetic Sufi dancing display. It was so dramatic and loud that it became a little disturbing, particularly when one chap twirled constantly to the beat of drums for a whole half hour!
The Egyptian Museum is startling. I easily spent six hours in the place and could have been there longer. On the way out I was conned by a really charming 'professor' of papyrus who would eventually use me for my passport so that he could swindle some alcohol duty free and sell it at inflated prices later on. It was harmless and kind of funny how he pulled off an elaborate guise just to ask me for my passport.
The Pyramids were surprisingly close to town, Giza being a suburb of Cairo. A sandstorm swept up on the day and completely obscured Cairo. There is a vantage point south of the Pyramids twenty minutes walk through the sand from which to best view the ancient monuments. On the way back I crossed a scarab beetle which to the ancient Egyptians was a sign of good luck. I, however, realised I'd left my clock behind and had to trek back through the sandstorm to get it, so luck deserted (pun intended) me.
Saqqara, half an hours drive south of Cairo, was okay, but the sandstorm was even worse here.
Cairo has some fantastic walks but I found it extremely easy to get lost. At one point I wandered out towards Zamalek to the north when I thought I was heading south! This was not a disappointing venture as it seems every street of Cairo has something interesting about it.
The food in Cairo was immediately impressive to me having come from Southeast Asia where I dieted on rice and noodles for most of the time. After settling in to Egypt though you realise the lack of variety in the streetside stalls. Falafel and koshari (a pasta and herb mix) are staple foods, hence the fibre intake is very high. As is the sugar intake, the temptations of sweets abound - Cairo must have 10 patisseries for every one chemist. Combine these two dietary staples and you end up with a rather fat population.
Women are largely absent from the streets, particularly when compared to Southeast Asia where it is mostly women retailing on the streets. In Egypt that seems very rare.
Even without proportional female representation Cairo is one intoxicating city and deserving of a lengthier stay than the four days I gave it.

Comments
Add a comment