Never mind surfing. Our favorite quiet beach on mainland Puerto Rico is Rincon/s Steps because of its good snorkeling. But watch out for breakers in rough surf, as these will drop you on the amazing Elkhorn coral like kindling wood. The Elkhorn formations extend a few hundred feet past the sometimes submerged cement steps for which the beach is named. Reach it on the road to the lighthouse from town at the end of short road on the left that goes down to the water through a cow pasture.

Our second favorite thing on the west coast of Puerto Rico, aside from lunch at the European style and tres upscale Horned Dorset Primavera Hotel (the road out to it is windy, and it is easy to pass with hidden gates on the right when coming from Rincon) is a sunset at Wilderness Beach near Crash Boat in Aguadilla. This serene and pristine beach is set to the backdrop of massive limestone boulders. Wildernesss Beach can be reached starting on Hwy. 107 past Crash Boat. Head into Ramsey Base, passing the golf course on your left, and taking the road going west through the golf course. Follow this down to the beach sometime before sundown. There/s a good place to buy supplies, especially bottled ones, on the left before your reach Aguadilla on the way back from Ramsey Base, and Route 2 in Aguadilla has a huge big box supermercado which is worth a visit early on in a trip, despite nearly ruining the character of the region.

Rincon is light on the nightlife, but does have some fun options, including an outdoor bar/restaurant we tried on the oceanfront deck attached to the hotel south of Villa Antonio/s Parador. Recommended is the pink tourist flyer for Rincon by their local business chamber. It has a map with all businesses and beaches, including Paradise Restaurant in the center of town. Great fried snapper (chillo) and cold beer (cervezas frias).

For hikers, the northwest region has Guajataca National Preserve. On the way to this preserve on Route 2, in Quebradillas overlooking the water, there are some interesting looking views from the restaurants at several paradors, and one of them overlooks a rocky and non- swimmable beach.

Another must for green thumbs, botanists, and tree huggers is the Estacion Experimental Agricola Federal (831- 3435) in Mayaguez, worth the trip from Rincon. Amazing gardens. Practically any tropical fruit you can name hanging in front of your face. Enter from Hwy 64 (Avenida de Paris), via Spur 2, where the road bisects the two natural retreats.

St. German is an historic town not too far away from Rincon that is great for its architecture and a stroll. (It/s also the birthplace of Benicio del Toro.) Enjoyable farmland on the way, with horseback riding a common means of transport.