My friend, Lance who spends 1-2 months a year in Cambodia said we should go to Battambang 1st - the heart of Cambodia he calls it. A great suggestion. Laid back, friendly, very Khmer & non-commercial. Invite you to visit the complete account of this two month trip to Hong Kong, Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam at http://chaskemp.googlepages.com/asiatrip The trip was important to all three travelers: This was my son's first trip to Cambodia, where his birth parents are from. It was my best friend's & my first return to Vietnam where we fought long years ago.

Battambang is very laid back, food great, no night life, just straight Khmer culture. In Battambang stayed in Angkor Hotel for ~$13 USD for triple with balcony overlooking river. Took 1st tour of my life - motos into the countryside - what a great tour! Ate mostly at White Rose Restaurant, which ties for best mango shake with Soi Buttri guy near Khao San Road in Bangkok. From Battambang, took boat up the river to Tonle Sap and across top of lake to landing near Siem Reap.