A few miles north of Labasa is Naag Mandir, a Hindu temple in Nagigi village. You may enter (leaving your shoes outside) if you have consumed no alcohol nor meat that day. Inside is a huge stone shaped like a cobra and festooned with colorful garlands. On a shelf in front of the stone were offerings of incense, ghee, fruit, flowers and a box of milk. The priest told me the stone is growing. 120 years ago it was very small, but now it nearly touches the roof. Long ago, plans to build a new road called for the stone to be moved, but after all the members of the road crew got sick, they decided to re-site the road around the stone. It is also said to bring fertility. One man whose wife was childless after 20 years came to the temple and prayed, and soon afterwards his wife became pregnant. To me, the temple seemed filled with the strength and compassion of an enormously powerful spirit.

On Viti Levu, Fijis main island, I went to Vatukacewacewa village, about 30 minutes west of Rakiraki town. We presented a ceremonial bundle of yagona (kava roots), and were invited into the home of the Chiefs herald for a ceremony. After we'd each drunk two coconut shell bowls of "grog," two villagers told stories of their ancestral gods and legends.

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