Bangkok really is a sprawling monster of a city ( official population 6 million, in reality closer to 9) and at first glance many people’s first reaction is to get the hell out of it . But although its treasures are a little more hidden than say Florence or Madrid, they do exist and in abundance, take it from someone who lived there for nigh on 8 years. Temples, canals, markets, those never to be forgotten restaurants, and if you take just a little time to step of the main roads, you’ll find yourself in winding lanes and allays you never imagined existed and are a million miles (years) from the sky scrapers, Irish theme bars, and 7 elevens which seem to characterize every major city these days.

It’s a great city, of that here is no doubt, but it at times it can seem a little daunting for new arrivals. Your first obstacle will no doubt come as you step outside the airport into the hot humid air looking for a taxi (This is the moment I truly savor and when I really feel I’ve come “home”.) The taxi drivers can very reluctant to turn on their meters, but fret not, just go to the next one, and the next one. Repeat until you find the guy who will turn on his meter. Usually after they’ve seen you turn down a couple they’ll realize its meter or nothing. Or (an old travelers trip which I’m sure many of you already know and if do not, should) just nip down (or is it up, slips my mind) to departures where you’ll quickly find a taxi driver so happy to get a return trip that there’ll be no quibbling about the fare.

Getting around the city is pretty simple, the sky train being the easiest and most comfortable way to travel and although it doesn’t cover the entire city it’ll more than likely stop at most of the places you’re likely to want to visit. If your destination is off the sky train route then it’s no big problem with meter taxis everywhere- all you really need to do is stick out a hand and watch one screech to a halt. By and large taxi drivers in Bangkok aren’t a bad lot and as long as you make sure they switch on their meter you should have no problems. If they won’t switch on the meter, don’t waste any time arguing, just get out and flag down another, it’ll honestly appear in seconds.(ok a minute at the outside).

In my mind the one spot you should not miss when in what the Thais call Krung Thep, The City of Angels is Chatuchak, The weekend market. This is THE place to buy something or anything. Whatever you want, you’re pretty much guaranteed to find it here. Great if Christmas is coming up. Even if you don’t want to buy anything, then go anyway just to experience what is, I believe, the largest outdoor market in Asia. To get there get off at the last stop on the sky train- Mor Chit, you really can’t miss it. As soon as you step out of the station just follow the crowd and pretty soon you’ll find yourself in amongst the thousands of stalls. Although some attempt has been made to bring order to the market with areas divided according to goods; antiques over here, plants there, wooden carvings yonder, and spices to your right etc...there really isn’t much chance of following a designated route. Just plunge in and you’ll find yourself part of the colors, smells and unique atmosphere that makes up Chatuchak. It’s also a pleasant place to wander due to the lack of hassle you get in say the souks of North Africa or the Pat Pong Street Market off Silom. Although the sheer volume of people means that you should keep a close eye on your wallet, purse, handbag, I’ve never once had anything stolen in the hundreds of trips I’ve taken down the winding streets of this mini city. If, like me, you don’t really like places too crowded then go on a Friday. This is the day when many of the stalls are just preparing for the onslaught of Saturday and Sunday and are setting up their wares. There are a lot less people there and though many of the stalls are shut there’s still plenty to satisfy the curiosity.

After a hard days browsing or buying then you’re going to have worked up a bit of an appetite, and there is no better place to be when you’re hungry than Thailand. The country is known internationally for its food, and rightly so. Due to the number of regional immigrants to the city who just can’t live without their favorite dishes, in  Bangkok you have access to food from all over the Kingdom.

Street stalls line most streets and offer up top notch fare to be eaten on rickety tables on the sidewalk. Most of the time you can just point at what takes your fancy take a pew and await your meal but because it can sometimes be confusing as to who is selling what here’s a quick guide to some of the more common dishes in Thailand with the Thai name written as phonetically as is possible using the Roman Alphabet.Most street food is sold from silver colored metal carts on wheels with glass display windows. A vat of boiling something set inside the cart generally means they’re selling noodles. Chances are if you see grey balls in the display windows they are selling Koi Tio, rice noodles with fish balls. If you see red pork hanging from hooks, its Bar Mee Moo Dang, egg noodles with red pork and to my palate the far tastier of the Two noodle dishes. You’ll pay around 60 cents for a steaming aromatic bowl.If in the display windows you see boiled chicken or crispy chicken (a bit like KFC chicken) the odds are it’s Cow Man Gai, flavored rice served with the sliced chicken on top and a chicken broth on the side. A simple but magnificent meal. By far the most common food served is Cow pat Gai. Chicken fried rice and if the metal stall doesn’t have a boiling vat set in the middle of it then this is what you’ll be getting. 

The variety of food available in Bangkok is vast and I really could go on forever but there’s no need as whatever you end up with its invariably good. Just remember that the Thai for not too hot please is “My Pet.” The following is a short list of some of the better Bangkok restaurants which have English menus.

Ban Chiang, 14 Soi Si Wiang

Ban Paw (Father’s House), Siam Square near the Novotel

Chaii Karr, Thanon Silom opposite the Holiday Inn

Supatra River House, 266 Soi Wat Rakhang

If you find the time, look at your map and head to the Baiyoke Tower 2 in central Pratunam. This is the tallest Building in the city, the second tallest hotel in the world and the top floor, on a clear day, offers a birds eye view of the city. What will strike you is a) the lack of greenery and b) the many sparkling gold buildings dotting the city. These are the famous temples of Bangkok, once the center of social life but now used pretty exclusively for religious purposes. You are allowed to enter any temple, any time as long as you are properly attired which means no shorts, no shoes and no short-sleeved shirts. As you wander the city don’t be afraid to stroll into one or two temples not mentioned in all the literature about the city, you won’t be disappointed and at the very least they’ll offer some peace, quiet and shade.

Some of the most beautiful and popular are Wat Pho near the Tha Tien river stop, Wat Arun again near Tha Tien river stop-just take a quick cross-river ferry, Wat Phra Kaew in the Grand Palace and easily found on any map and Wat Benchamabophit on Thanon (road) Sri Ayutahya . (Wat means Temple in Thai).

No trip To Bangkok is complete without a trip on either the river or the canals. An interesting canal trip to take is to jump on (quickly! the longboat drivers don’t hang around) on a boat at the boat stop near the world trade center (you’ll find it on any map) and ride down to Banglamphoo, the Backpackers Ghetto and also where you’ll find the grand palace and Sanam Luang (one of Bangkok’s few parks). There are few sights as beautiful as seeing the golden spires of the Grand Palace peeking though the many colorful kites that Bangkokers like to fly in the park on the weekend.

Another option for boat travel is to ride the express boat (just get on the biggest boat you see at the port) up to Nothaburi (the end of the line). There’s nothing much to see in Nontaburi but as with the ride from the world trade center to Banglampoo you get a good look at the houses that sit right by the water and a way of life that’s changed little over the past hundred years or so. People swimming, washing clothes, buying noodles from passing boats, it’s all very different from the Bangkok you see as a land-lubber!   

Bangkok’s also got a big reputation for its night life and some of its night clubs are as good as their counterparts in New York or London. For great music and good beer head to Saxophone in Victory monument- three stories with loud jazz and blues. Or you could try any of the Bars on Soi Sarason near Lumpini Park. For night life of the more sleazy variety check out Nana on Sukumvit Soi 4, or Soi Cowboy off Asoke.

========================== About the author: Joel has lived and worked in Asia for the last decade and has written for numerous travel magazines. He is the chief editor of http://asiatravelezine.netfirms.com and is also responsible for editing and managing the website, http://asiahotelbookings.netfirms.com. He currently resides in Hanoi, Vietnam. This article may be reproduced in its entirety as long as this byline is included.