Cuidad Perdida - Lost City - Colombia!!
For those that are interested in this trek, i have just finished it and it was amazing. I am staying in Taganga and we booked through Casa de Felipe, but had to go to Turcol or Mirmar to pay. The tour cost 400,000 pesos no matter which place we went and we eventually booked through Mirmar as their information was much better. Essentially, the tour is 6 days (although some groups do it in 5).
The tour (IMO) is not that well organised and prepared, however it sort of adds to the charm and adventure of it was well. It is certainly not a Machu Pichu where there are a million tourists. In our group there were six, and we passed one other group on the way back with 9 people - we had the lost city between 6 of us!!!!! for two nights. That's all the tourists we saw. We (and two other girls) were staying in Taganga and the Mirmar stated they were sure to pick us up, which they then rang on the morning and said for us to catch a bus - bit annoying, but is quick to get there.
The trip is one of the most amazing I have completed and IMO rated above Macchu Pichu in Peru due to there being hardly any tourists, the trek is so scenic, and the site undeveloped (see later in my diatribe).
Day 1
We left in a vehicle that had to be push started at about 730 am, squeezed in like sardines. We had our guide, us six and a few other hangers on who had nothing to do with our walk. You drive into the mountains on a paved road for about 1.5 hrs and then turn off onto a dirt track for another hr. You can see the sea behind you and rugged mountains in front.
I got off and hung outside to view more (and because it was cramped). We got bogged once, but not too bad. Once at the town you get out and prepare your stuff (see my later section for what to take). The food is packed onto a mule and off you go. We walked for about an hr along a muddy trail. Hint - we were wet most of the time so our daint dabbles across the first creeks were a waste of time - just get wet from the start!!
We stopped at a natural pool with little rapids and had a swim for 30 minutes. We were the off again for about 2.5 hrs and we arrived at our sleeping place for the night. There was a fair bit of uphill here. The sleeping arrangements are under the roof of the peoples casa in hammocks with mossy nets with holes in them. The hammocks are uncomfortable and the sand flies get in through the net - take a very good repellent. See my sleeping section.
At the casa you can wash your clothes and then they have the meal ready at about 6 pm. This was chicken, rice, platana and potato. There is no electricity so we were supplied candles and the played cards etc. The house has all sorts of animals around it and be careful of the bulls of you got for a midnight pee as one of the girls found out!! The sand flies here are the worst. i eventually slept on the floor in the sleeping bag, with a t shirt over my face and cloth around my neck.
Day 2
We were woken at about 630 and had breaky. We started walking at about 0900 hrs and walked for 4 hrs or so total. There are many stops along the way and the scenery is amazing. The trails narrow and you cross many small rivers. It was steaming hot, however the jungle thickens and you walk under a fair bit of canopy which is much cooler. You pass an Indian village where they live very basic. The only western influence i saw was the elders in rubber boots. They were not too friendly and Isario said they don't like the foreighners to much. We have the children some cookies, but the girls had much better gifts; pens and paper etc.
We reached the camp at about 1 pm. It was just a shed, but had showers and toilets right next door (the last place we had to walk about 100 m). The guide showed us swimming place ( u get to swim every day) which was about 100 m down. Great rapids and cool water. We washed our clothes here just by swimming in them. Lunch was then ready - (soup) and then you can just chill. Play cards, swim, reflect, whatever. If you are like the Irish guy you can swim to the other side of the river and then be not able to get back across!!
Dinner was cooked for us again - beans and rice + juice. Mossies - still bastards!!
Day 3
Woke up at 530 and had breaky, an arrepa (sp) type thing. The mule cant do this day so you carry ur own sleeping bag if you want to take it. We started walking at 715 and walked for about 6 hrs. This is the best part of the trek. The scenery is amazing, thick rain forest. It is a steep walk in parts - very narrow trails and slippery. You cross a span cart bridge thing early on, and then cross the river 8 times, up the the, the first bit very steep and narrow trails height. The water is warm and its fun crossing them. This is where we passed the other group coming back. You also see Indians wandering along the trails.
We came to the fist steps at about 1 pm or something. We swam at the water fall first, had lunch and then started the climb. They are very small steps and there are 1200 of them to climb. You come out at the first round stone mounds. They are built about waist height in some places, less and more in others. I thought that was it, but we then moved up other steps to the central part of the lost city. This is much bigger cylindrical mounds built with stones. They are layered with smaller ones, higher up behind.
My explanation is probably crappy, but it is an awsome spectacle. The thick rain forest mountains surround you, covered in mist, there are numerous waterfalls and the river below - it is really amazing. A lot of the steps and the city are still covered in jungle or moss or both which adds to the eeriness.
We stayed here for a while and then moved to the accom. Its a built hut and about 300 metres behind the main central area. Three levels and you sleep on a mattress's here with mossy nets. Much better sleeping!!. The food is beans with rice again and potato. No electricity (is better this way) an at night candles etc and card games. The rainforest's surrounds you.
Day 4
Up at about 730 or so. I counted my mossy bites. from my left knee to my calf I had 167. I didn't bother with my other leg or hands etc. VERY itchy!! We then went for a walk for about 3 hrs around the city. Much bigger than what you think (see my lost city spiel section). We then went down a non-existant trail to a water fall for a swim. Hard yacka. We then went to the main swimming area for a few hrs. We got back to the huts just as it started to piss down.
The others played cards etc and I chilled out. When the rain stopped, i went for a walk by myself. I strongly recommend u do this - its awsome. There are so many paths that you miss covered in jungle etc that I went up trying to explore. It is MUCH bigger than you think. Oh yeah - nasty ants here too. Shane sat on a rock in the central part and got up screaming. He ripped of his pants and underwear and went mad. Thought he had lost a screw. Anyway - ants do that to you. We were worried we would be torched for desecrating a sacred site by his crazy nude dance by the Indians!! See lost city spiel again anyway.
A good dinner again at about 630 pm, then cards or sleep or whatever.
Day 5
Up early at 6 for breaky. This is sposed to be the hardest day so we took off early. I left early to explore a bit more by myself. We set off at about 730, reverse of what was above. we walked to the place we stayed at the first night. Same things
Day 6
Up at about 7 am. Asked if we wanted the coke tour. 5 of us did. Turned out to be a demo on the veranda. Bit different to what we had heard from other people and a bit of a waste of time IMO. After that an easy 3 hr walk (swim again) to the first village, then in the truck (with a hundred other things ) an back to Santa Marta.
Anyway, that's it! One of the best things i have done in SA and well worth the effort!!
Para Military
We saw the Colombian military on day 1 and paras on days two (a set check point). Both were very friendly, no checking of bags etc and no attempted bribes. Only wanted a chat. Some pers asked for photos and some said yes, some said no. If fully armed paras freak you out, find another trip to take.
Indians
We saw quite a few on the trails and one or two very small villages. I found them very very interesting, but they (the elders) didn't seem overly happy to see tourists. Our guide said they don't like us being here to much, although they tolerate us. They live as they have I imagine for a few hundred years. The kids are great - shy but a little cheeky. Dont slam a camera in their face. Ask frist. Some said yes, some said no. Respect their yes or no. I think the girls had the best gifts for them - pens and paper. We had cookies. We decided on no sweets to try and save their teeth (although they seem to knock the front few out themselves!!).
Animals
Didn't see any wild animals which was surprising. Saw two snakes (one dangerous the other not) and the mules. Didn't see any monkeys, but the guide said it was because the Indians hunt and eat them!!
Sleeping
Sleeping on all but the two nights in the Lost City is in Hammocks - you never carry them don't worry. The mossy nets have a few holes (they are supplied as are hammocks and sleeping bags). You don't need a sleeping bag if you have warm clothes at night and a sheet.
On the walk into and out of the lost city u have to carry the sleeping bag. So if you have a day pack like me take some occur straps to tie it with. My rec is, if you have one of the mossy domes and a sleeping matt, take them. One it wont have holes and two hammocks are way overrated for sleeping. I also recommend you take a pair of gloves and a balaclava as the sand flies get through the net and are a menace to society. They kept us all wake on most nights and their bites suck!!!
Language
The tour is in Spanish. There are no English guides. It sort of adds to the experience and enough of us knew enough to put it together (thanks C).
There were a European couple asking about English guides etc and specifically wanted one. If you are unwilling to have the tour in Spanish you will either 1) have to give it a miss or 2) hope there is a Spanish speaker on the walk who doesn't mind translating for you!!
Food
I though the food was pretty good considering you are totally out of touch with civilisation. Youi don't starve and its fairly healthy. I would recommend you take some sweets and chocolate especially if you have my sweet tooth. The guide also finds bananas and mandarins along the way!! I got Diarrhoea on the second day and had to take imoden. Nothing serious - just a lot of secret poo stops along the trail. Indians find this funny when they spring you!! Immoden fixed it finally!!
What to take
I packed light and suggest the same. I took:
2 pairs of shorts, 1 pair of long pants (only for night time), 3 pairs of socks, 3 pairs of undies, 1 x towel, 1 x pair of runners, 3 a t shrits, 1 x fleece, 1 x wet raincoat (watse of time), long sleeve shirt, small toiletries, small knife, good torch (no elec where u r going), toilet paper roll, and food I wanted. I wore the same clothes each day and saved the long clothes for night. Mossy repellent. Digi camera, 3 x disposable cameras. First aid kit (take Immoden !!!), puritabs, gifts for Indians. Diary, pens, 100,000 pesos (no u don't need that much - 20,000 for coco show, 2000 pesos cokes on last night)
What I didn't take and wish i did. Balaclava, light sheet (and ditch the sleeping bag), gloves, the strongest mossy repellent on earth, rubber thongs, mossy dome and sleeping matt, spare torch, more chocolate, a fan to wave away mossies when you stop - no i am not joking about this 8ended up using a fern)
It is WET all the time. Double bagged bag ur stuff in ur pack (i also individually placied my clothes etc as well).
I (and all the people in our group) wore sand shoes. These were fine and easy to wash in the rivers. Unless u have weak ankles i don't think boots are needed!!
Washing
Each day there is plenty of time to wash in the river or at the casa. I wore the same clothes each day. I washed them at the camp (fresh water wash) wrung them out and hung them up. They were semi dry by morning and body heat dried them over breakfast, then they were soaking wet again 10 mins into the walk!! You can dry you clothes in ur sleeping bag too - body heat will dry them out!!
Is it hard to walk
I found the walk very very easy. This is because you go very very slow. It is catered to the slowest human, with many many breaks. If you are reasonably fit, no problems. If not then maybe a bit harder. We had three fit and three unfit. They were often far behind and we waited for them often . This actually works out better as you enjoy the scenery more. There are lots of uphills on steep slippery trails so be prepared (and downhills of cse which are worse IMO).
We had a great group which made it very enjoyable. We didn't mind waiting and they never ever complained. We heard from other groups about people refusing to go on, making others carry their packs or demanding flights out. I think its possible to do the walk in to the city in one day and out in one day, but you would miss lots of scenery. I would however to prefer to walk out in one day then the two we did.
Mossies and Sand Flies
They SUCK - big time - are savage and I wish them no good will at all. 167 bites on my left leg knee to ankle. Didn't bother counting the rest. I saw a girl before we left (American) who I though had some bizarre rash, but she had just come back from the walk. We now look the same. The sand flies are small enough to get through the mossy nets - hence my rec for a thin balaclava and gloves. They itch like crazy and I am scratching right now!! Take my advice on this one!!
Water - Drinking
I took a 1.5 litre bottle. You fill up out of the rivers ( they are everywhere so no problem). I took puritabs and others didn't. Personal choice.
Rain
It was very very wet with the trail very very soggy. It generally rained from about 3 pm on wards with very heavy showers at nights. Plants have no problem growing here!! Expect to be wet through sweat, river crossing or rain the whole time you are walking!!
Safety
Tourists were taken from the hut at the lost city about two years ago. Nothing since then. Tours go every few days. According to our guide the paras control the area now. 3 years ago there was a lot of fighting. Its a personal choice based on your risk factor. I think its fine to go - this doesn't mean something wont or could not happen. Withe the current political activities (Uribe being given another shot at another term) and the Killing of two senior FARC or ELN (not sure) commanders maybe they could target the area. Anyway, no right or wrong answer you will have to make ur own decision. I think there is far more chance of falling over and breaking or straining something and would concentrate on this one!!
The lost City Site
Its amazing. There are 1200 steps leading up to it (very small - must have been wee people) and then wider ones further on. The small steps connect the various sites (circular platforms) where the houses were built. Layered circular platforms made out of slate, which were quarried in the area. Lots of steps connecting these . The site is surrounded my mist covered mountains, rain forest and waterfalls. I went exploring the second day alone, and there is much much more to it than the tour shows. Many steps leading into the jungle still covered over. Its great and unreal to explore and there are only a few of you there at once. It is sort of Early and much less sterile than Macchu - Still moss covered and many uncleared areas.Our guide said the Indians know of many more, but are unwilling to show where they are. I have photos which will give a much better insight into what it looks like.
The below spiel was taken from our guide - our Spanish was poor so I may have facts wrong but this is the general gist:
The city was discovered in 1975 by a treasure hunter called Frankie Ray from Santa Marta. The Indians were coerced into showing the site. He looted it and got into fights with other treasure hunters where two were killed. This was eventually reported to Bogota and the bodies claimed and some people arrested. Frankie Ray is on a gov pension for finding the site and was the founder of Turcol (the only tour agent). He used to be a guide but was too much of a drunk and one of his relies took over. He is still around Santa Marta Somewhere.
The lost city was built around 1500 years ago (or 1500 - we couldn't understand which as it chopped and changed). They were an advanced civilisation and about 1500 people lived in this city alone. I couldn't understand when they died out or what happened to them. The Tayrona Indians now hold it as a sacred site. There are, as I said many other sites. Their is a stone map in the main central area which, if you knew which site was the lost city, it would give the general direction of the others. There is a large frog (i think it was a frog) but we couldn't understand the significance.
Cocoa Houses
We heard other groups went to an actual factory. We had a demo on the veranda of a house. Initial quote was 40,000 pesos which we agreed on 20,000. This was w waste of time IMO. Boring and not well done. Actually i am of two minds on the {{morality{{ of viewing this. This is the beginning of the line of what ends up in our western countries. The people farming it earn sweet FA from it (i think??) and i was a bit disturbed-annoyed at the 3 year old son watching the process and helping out. You see lots of coco trees along the route (yes I did have to have them pointed out to me). I don't really care what others do, but the end result is kids working coco fields for a living! Not good at all!
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