Night had turned the earth cold and it was frigid when we ventured outdoors. Ray and I settled onto the bus and we watched from the windows as vendors set out their wares. Soon the market area around our hotel would be prepared for another day.

We both could have used more sleep. Yet, our local guide, Gloria Maldonado, was a bubbling, energetic and kind soul who after passing out blankets and pillows, spoke a good part of the journey. Sleeping the entire journey would not be easy. Gloria's stories were captivating and her high energy did not allow easily falling back to sleep.

Our bus climbed through the narrow streets of La Paz toward El Alto and we passed through a hail storm. After two weeks at altitude, I still found the harshness of Bolivia's high altitude weather patterns somewhat amazing. In places along our journey, we saw so much hail fall that it looked to be like drifted snow. And, later in the same day it would be so warm, I would not need a jacket or sweatshirt and was quite comfortable in either long or short sleeved shirts. This morning, I was grateful for an added layer, a thick and warm blanket. (Thank you, Gloria!)

Facts dropped into my ears and mind as I drifted in and out of sleep. Gloria, who is of Amarayan descent and works for Transturin, told us the Inkas tried to impose their language on other cultures they conquered. Yet, inspite of being conquered by the Inka, the Aymara people have a very strong culture and their Aymara language has survived. The people who live around Lake Titikaka are Aymara. We were told, the higher we would go in altitude, the closer we would be to the ancestors of the Aymara people.

Gloria said "Titikaka" refers to the original name of Sun Island, Teeceekaka Chinkana Inka Ruin. And, I also learned there are varying translations for "Titikaka". Some say it means stone cat, others translate it to gray cat or puma. Sleepiness prevented my full attention yet I did capture just enough of Gloria's lecture and conversations to be reminded of the lore regarding the origination of the world and humanity with Lake Titikaka playing a central role. I hear of the legendary birthplace of the first Inka, Manco Capac, and his sister, Mama Ocllo and I am reminded of the great creator god, Viracocha. We would be at a very special place when we arrived at Lake Titikaka.

Before long, we approached the shores of Lake Titikaka. Small towns line the shore and our quiet morning began to stir both birds and villagers while daylight graced the landscape. It was 7:30 AM.

At Chua / Huatajata we boarded the catamaran, Consuelo, which was our home for the next two days. This is the largest vessel on the lake and has 20 cabins, each with its own view. On board a breakfast buffet was waiting for us and we began our journey across Lake Titikaka's beautiful dark and tranquil water. Cruising altitude -- 12,651 feet.

For more information on cuising Lake Titikaka, check out http://www.transturin.com/ship_profile.html

After about an hour and a half we reached the southern side of Isla del Sol. Here we enjoyed a morning hike, up the "Escalera de Inka", Inka stairs. The steps were a challenge to climb and children waited for us. Here it would have been great to move quickly, but I felt a bit like a sitting duck at the mercy of these energetic vendors as I slowly placed one foot in front of the other. Every now and then, I stopped to rest and found myself surrounded by friendly little hands holding various woven items. Along the shore, men and women worked on construction projects -- Isla del Sol provided equal opportunity for all to work.

After a climb of 235 feet, we admired a spring. We caught our breath, then walked along an easy trail where we follow alongside vast Inka terraces. The terraces were well tended and hosted a variety of native plantings: crops, medicinal herbs and a variety of blooming flowers. We watched as a man tended the fields with an Andean footplow. Then, we passed by some camelids and ended our walk at a beautiful vista overlooking Lake Titikaka. A small museum is situated here and we went inside to inspect the archeaological treasures on display. We hiked back the way we had come and made our way past the vendors who lined the Inka steps.

We rejuvenated ourselves with lunch aboard the ship. Then, we boarded a reed boat fashioned similar to a Polynesion seagoing vessel complete with twin jaguar heads sculpted by woven reeds to ward off, frighten and decorate the ultra touristy transportation. Two men with oars paddled while the inboard motor did most of the work.

Ray and I were ready explore the north side of the Island. We disembarked at the small Aymara village of Challapampa. Here we were greeted by men and women of the village as children curiously looked on. The men danced and played Andean flutes and drums. Their costumes were well aged and decorated with the fur of either ocelots or jaguars, feathers and tradition. The women hung garlands of flowers around our necks. The dancing men dance motioned us to follow along behind their dance and we were led to a cove where small fishing boats waited. Our afternoon hike, to Chinkana Inka Ruins, would begin after a short sail in these small boats. Oh, what a life!

Ah! To set sail in a small fishing boat on Lake Titikaka. Our white boat was twelve feet long, and trimmed with green paint. Unlike the jaguar-style touristy reed boat, this was a true working man's vessel. It was well worn; yet well maintained: it had enjoyed many a sail on Lake Titikaka. Three of us from the tour and the boat's owner made a cozy group. Titikaka's water was aquamarine, inky blue and green and clear down to 20 feet. At times the water colored thalo blue and almost black. Then in a little different light and ten minutes later the water echoed emerald green. The boatman rowed us past the point where the wind was going our way, then he raised the lateen sail and we glided effortlessly towards our landing below Chinkana ruins. I wanted this experience to last forever. After our sail was raised, I tossed my lei into the Lake and made a wish.

At the northern tip of the Isla del Sol, we docked at the bottom of a cliff, then climbed 275 feet. The change in altitude doesn't really sound like so much on paper, but at this altitude, oxygen is scarce and I certainly knew I was climbing. Even though I had been at altitude for two weeks, I still noticed problems when doing an after-lunch hike. Hiking and digesting certainly complicated my body's oxygen delivery system.

Gloria introduced me to an herbal remedy, a form of aromatherapy which helps one breathe. I rubbed the small branches of the koa plant in my hands, smelled its scent and felt energized. (In Peru I learned the Quechua call this same plant "la muña".) We visited the Inka ruins at Chinkana temple, which date to 1200 AD, and a dark sky threatened. Soon it started to hail and rain. Eager to move on, we met at the sacred rock altar where two kallawayas prepared an offering to pachamama. Gratefully, the sky cleared, and stunning beauty surrounded us.

If you are interested, Unesco provides informative background on kallawayas, the shaman-healer-priests of the Andes: http://portal.unesco.org/culture/en/ev.php-URL_ID=15690&URL_DO=DO_TOPIC&URL_SECTION=201.html

We enjoyed a long walk across the ridge back to the village. Rufous collared sparows twilled and enchanted us. A large, nondescript black bird, wih an orange beak identified in our bird book as a glossy black thrush added to the song. Three young school-aged boys, Alan, Alexander and Freddie joined us along the path. Our visiting with them led to a chant: Name is Sharon, Charro, Charita. Chica is Linda. Judy, Judy, Judy! A yellow winged cacique flew in between the trees and landed on the maize field.

In the village we were invited to see dried food products and crafts which had been layed out in a small courtyard for us to view. We arrived back to our cruise ship, Consuelo, at 645 PM. Ray and I rested, then enjoyed a candlelight dinner and evening entertainment with more song and dance provided by the locals of Challapampa.

Evening brought a heavy rain. I hit the pillow at 945 PM and was instantly asleep.

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Come visit with me at http://travelerstogo.com/ by posting your follow-up questions in the Carribean, Mexico, Central & South American forum. My alias is Sharon Mc1, and I am the destination moderator for that forum -- I love talking about travel!

I recently wrote a practical travel guide for the Peruvian and Bolivian high Andes. I had a great deal of fun writing it, and particularly enjoyed writing the restaurant reviews. Here is the link:

http://p104.ezboard.com/feuropetogofrm21.showMessage?topicID=40.topic

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Articles in this series include:

Miami, Jupiter, & the Everglades (Florida) http://www.worldisround.com/articles/141804/index.html

La Paz, Tiwanaku & Valley of the Moon (Bolivia) http://www.worldisround.com/articles/141500/index.html

Oruro Carnival (Bolivia) http://www.worldisround.com/articles/141977/index.html

Sajama National Park (Bolivia) http://www.worldisround.com/articles/143197/index.html

Salar de Uyuni (Bolivia) http://worldisround.com/articles/143714/index.html

Train Graveyard - Uyuni (Bolivia) http://www.worldisround.com/articles/141742/index.html

Train Graveyard - Pulacayo (Bolivia) http://www.worldisround.com/articles/141647/index.html

Along the Road from Uyuni to Potosí (Bolivia) http://worldisround.com/articles/143868/index.html

Potosí (Bolivia) http://worldisround.com/articles/145509/index.html

Sucre (Bolivia) http://worldisround.com/articles/182068/index.html

Tarabuco (Bolivia) http://worldisround.com/articles/182063/index.html

Jatun Yampara (Bolivia) http://www.worldisround.com/articles/169005/index.html

Lake Titikaka (Bolivia) http://www.worldisround.com/articles/261030/index.html

Copacabana (Bolivia) http://www.worldisround.com/articles/261498/index.html

Along the Road - Copacabana (Bolivia) to Puno (Peru) http://www.worldisround.com/articles/261584/index.html

Cusco, Sacsayhuaman & Lima (Peru) http://www.worldisround.com/articles/270254/index.html