After an early start from Manchester we arrived in Marrakesh late morning which was pleasantly warm compared to the chill of England. After unsuccessfully haggling with the taxi driver we were on our way to the Djemaa el Fna, the central square of Marrakesh. The driver pointed us in the direction of Hotel Sherazade (which we had booked online), a pleasant hotel with a pretty tiled courtyard. Although out room was tiny it had some charm and at only 260 Dh we weren't complaining. After lunch at one of the cafes around the Djemaa el Fna we took a stroll around the large square watching the storytellers, snake charmers, musicians and street vendors. It was not long before Richard found himself with a snake around his neck. After taking the photo and handing over some money we were able to escape. Tired from the early morning we headed to the Menara gardens for a relaxing afternoon. Although more rundown than the tourist literature suggests the gardens were pleasant and an excellent people watching opportunity.
After haggling with a caleche driver (more successfully this time) we found ourselves back in the square where vendors were busy turning it into an open air restaurant. Dinner consisted of skewered meat and delicious grilled eggplants, salads, chips, olives, chilli sauce, and of course bread (which seemed to be a part of every Moroccan meal). Despite the dozen or more plates in front of us the total only came to about 150 Dh for both of us. The meal was extremely entertaining, the restaurateurs cat calling to passer-bys in an attempt to attract additional customers.
After a good sleep (only interrupted by the morning call to pray from the neighbouring mosque) and breakfast of Moroccan crepes (fighting off a swarm of wasps), we set out to explore the medina with its narrow streets and busy souks. While some parts were quite touristy other parts seemed to have changed little over time. At some point we stumbled across the tanneries (without the help from any of the guys constantly calling out 'tanneries') where men were working animal skins using techniques that had changed little over hundreds of years. Men scraped fur from the skins and used their arms and legs to immerse them in all manner of toxic smelling liquids. After lunch of bananas brought from a local market we found ourselves near the museum of Marrakesh, a peaceful haven from the chaos of the souks. As with many of the museums in Morocco the building was as much the attraction as the contents of the museum. We then headed next door to the Ali ben Youssef Medersa (a traditional religious school) admiring the beautiful tiling and stucco decoration. Heading out of the souks we visited the once great Palais Badi (now largely in ruins) and the much better preserved Saadian tombs.
Leaving the chaos of the city behind we decided to visit the Cascades DOuzoud, Moroccos best waterfalls. We had organised this trip though Sahara Expeditions, with a Swedish and a French guy as travelling companions. The waterfalls and surrounding scenery were beautiful although we never found some caves which were signposted from near the falls. After a nice long walk we sat down to our first tagine and then had just enough time to catch a rainbow over the falls before heading back to Marrakesh.
The following morning we had out first taste of Moroccan public transport as we headed to Ouarzazate. We decided to go for a grand taxi as this appeared to be the most time effective way of getting to our destination with the cost only slightly higher than a bus (we paid 100Dh each but we may have been slightly overcharged). After specifying that we wanted a shared taxi (rather than the expensive option of chartering the whole car) we found ourselves crammed into an old Mercedes vehicle with four other passengers and the driver in a car that would usually only fit five people. However the discomfit was soon outweighed by the stunning mountain scenery and the speed of travel as our driver passed most other forms of transport on the road. On the way we stopped for tea in a small mountain town. Here we met a Welshman (he was on a tour and seemed unhappy with the group he was with) and had a bizarre conversation about New Zealand rugby.
We deposited out stuff at Hotel Amlal in the centre of town which appeared to be undergoing renovations at the time (and a price increase to 250 Dh) and had the feeling of only being half open as well as having erratic hot water. Torches came in handy that night navigating through the hotel hallways in the dark.
After a quick lunch we walked the kilometre or two to the Taourirt Kasbah, an imposing mud brick structure. Afterwards we explored the narrow mud brick streets of the old town.
The following day we visited the Atlas Film Studios and Ait Benhaddou with a local guide and 4WD. In the film studios we observed the plasterboard sets of several films including Asterix and Cleopatra, Kingdom of Heaven, and a yet to be released version of the Ten Commandments. Bizarrely the plane used in Jewel of the Nile sits alongside a Tibetan temple from Kundun.
After a brief stop at the Kasbah Tifoultoutte for mint tea with its caretaker, we drove over rough piste roads past an old film set from Gladiator on the way to Ait Benhaddou. Ait Benhaddou itself is spectacular although it is possible to see where it was rebuilt to appear in films such as Gladiator. Climbing up to the fortified granary at the top of the Kasbah we enjoyed a fantastic view of the surrounding valley.
In order to make the most of the stunning scenery between Ouarzazate and Tinerhir we again hired a driver and 4WD for the day. Our first stop for the day was the quiet Skoura oasis, the palmerie dotted with ruined Kasbahs. After stopping to look around Kasbah Amerdihl we headed though the Valley of the Roses (not in bloom but pretty all the same). Our driver then turned onto a piste road though the hammeda (stony desert) passing by desert nomads and a small village before coming out in the Dades Valley. The first part of the valley was wide and dotted with kasbahs before it became narrow with a winding road leading inside the main canyon.
Arriving in Tinerhir we said goodbye to our driver and checked into the El Houda hotel in the centre of town. Although our room was not quite what youd call clean (but far from being filthy) it was cheap (110 Dh for a room with bathroom, a good choice after looking at the shared squat toilets) and the management was friendly offering lots of information about the surrounding area. A guy who appeared to be associated with the hotel offered to show us around the small souk and the old mud brick part of town, an outing that inevitably ended in a carpet shop. After making polite excuses we headed back to the hotel for a delicious dinner of harira (a lentil soup) and tagine.
The next morning we took a grand taxi to the Todra Gorge as the sun was just beginning to creep past the walls of the gorge where we had the place to ourselves for an hour or so. Escaping just before an influx of tour groups we headed back towards Tinerhir though the lush green palmeries passing traditional villages and ruined kasbahs on the four hour walk.
With a goal of reaching the sand dunes of Erg Chebbi at the edge of the Sahara desert we once again approached the grand taxi rack to arrange a taxi to Erfoud which would be the staging point for our desert adventure. After waiting for an hour or so no other passengers were forthcoming apart from a Japanese girl who had also been staying at our hotel. We decided to fork out for the whole taxi and were on our way with several stops as the driver appeared to be checking the engine of the car. Arriving in Erfoud at midday we were surrounded by touts but after explaining we had a reservation at Auberge Atlas du Sable we were able to arrange a taxi to the hotel.
The hotel was built in mud brick Kasbah style and had a brilliant view of the dunes. Over lunch of kalia (a tagine consisting of lamb, peppers, tomato and many spices) the talk inevitably turned to camels. Accepting the offer of 250 Dh each for an overnight trip into the dunes we were soon being loaded onto camels, accompanied by Ali our desert guide who spoke some English as well as Spanish, French, Arabic and Berber. Our companions were a Spanish guy and an Argentinean guy travelling with his mother who was currently living in Morocco. After spending an hour or so on the camels we arrived at the camp just in time to see the moon rise. After sitting down for a tagine dinner we sat around the campfire talking and listening to Berber drumming. Despite the various languages in out group we found a way to communicate with our new friends and had an enjoyable evening. Although wed had a few reservations about sleeping out in the desert in December we were actually warmer than the previous nights spent in hotels in Tinerhir and Ouarzazate. The following morning we rose at dusk to see the sun rise over the dunes and after breakfast proceeded to climb the largest of the dunes overlooking the camp. Tanya only made it about a third of the way up but Richard climbed to the top for a fantastic view of the sea of sand. It seemed that we had come to the desert just in time as they were about to set up a huge camp for the following rush of people.
Heading back to the hotel on camel we had a shower (warm at best) and relaxed for a few hours before one of the people at the hotel dropped us off in Rissani, the last town before the dunes. With a few hours to spare before the overnight bus to Fes (the modern CTM bus looking quite strange in a dusty end of the road kind of town) we had time to be dragged into another souvenir shop (where many shiny things were thrust upon us in an ever more intense and convincing argument) and grab dinner at the dodgy looking Hotel Panorama (the food was actually quite decent).
Arriving at around 5:30 am we wandered past several hotels that were locked up (one said we couldnt have a room until 12 noon) eventually coming across a patisserie that was just opening where we had a delicious early morning breakfast. Continuing on the hotel quest we eventually came to the budget Hotel Royal (150 Dh) which was comfortable enough and more importantly was able to give us a room straight away for some much needed rest. After a quiet morning we took a taxi to the medina and walked to the Merenid Tombs for a spectacular view over Fes El Bali (the oldest part of the city) just in time to hear the afternoon call to prayer echoing around the city.
The next morning we set out to explore Fes El Bali, one of the best preserved medieval cities in the world. Wandering around the incredible maze of small alleyways and souks we eventually came out near the Kairaouine mosque. Stopping for lunch at the nearby patisserie we continued to explore the medina eventually coming across the tanneries. Invited into one of the shops with a terrace overlooking the tanneries we observed the tanners working in pits full of colourful dyes and numerous yellow skins laid out to dry on terraces around the pits. A tip for our guide turned out to be unnecessary as Richard haggled for a leather satchel and Tanya purchased some babouches (traditional Moroccan slippers). In the late afternoon we took a stroll through Fes El Jdid, a newer part of the city built in the 13th century, eventually coming out at the Royal Palace where we could only admire the beautiful entrance gate from afar.
The next morning we returned to the medina further exploring the narrow streets and seeing things we hadnt spotted the previous day. We found we were able to find most of the sights described in our guide book without the aid of any of the faux guides hanging around the medina. In fact it was surprisingly well signposted with tourist routes marked out by pink and blue signs and it would have been very difficult to end up truly lost. We decided to treat ourselves to lunch at Dar Saada, one of the palace restaurants in the medina. Although the food was good (but not spectacular), Richards kefta tagine contained a suspiciously undercooked egg. Richard stopped to successfully haggle for a lizard shaped skin lamp (why we dont know). As a heavy shower set in we were forced to retreat to a café in the Ville Nouvelle (the French built part of Fes).
The petit taxis in Fes were very good and always put the meter on unlike those in Marrakesh who never wanted to use the meter.
The next part of out trip through to Casablanca was by train which in general was very good with just one delay and we were surprised by how modern the train stations were.
After arriving in Meknes we checked into mid range Hotel Majestic (280 Dh) close to the train station. By this time Richard was feeling ill and regretting the tagine from yesterday. After a few quiet days as Richard recovered from a nasty dose of food poisoning we were ready to get out and explore Meknes, once the site of Moulay Ismails imperial city with its imposing walls and monumental gates. Compared to the Fes and Marrakesh medinas, the one in Meknes was small and easy to navigate making for a pleasant morning exploring the souks and local markets. We then walked past the huge gate Bab el Mansour into what was the main part of the imperial city and still the site of Moulay Ismails mausoleum (closed as it was Friday), trying to imagine the great city it once was. Afterwards we took a local bus back to the Ville Nouvelle (3 Dh each, only slightly cheaper than a taxi with two people).
The next day we headed for Volubilis, the most significant Roman ruin in Morocco despite the weather looking ominous. After taking a grand taxi to Moulay Idriss (a town near Volubilis which is regarded as the most holy place in Morocco) for 8 Dh each. We then took another taxi (30 Dh for the whole trip) for the last 5 km to the site. With the rain clearing up we had the site to ourselves for the first half hour. The most interesting part of the site was the stunning mosaics still in their original location (unlike some Roman sites in Europe). Heading back to Moulay Idriss we climbed the hill for a fantastic view over the picturesque town which was quite lively as it was Saturday, local market day. We returned to Meknes (the overall cost of transport for the day under half the rate that taxi drivers were offering us for the complete trip at the start of the day) in time to visit the peaceful Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail which had been closed on the previous day.
We arrived in Rabat and checked into another Hotel Majestic which had a good view over the corner of the medina (280 Dh). We started off by exploring the Kasbah, the oldest part of the city with narrow streets of pretty whitewashed houses and the nearby Andalusian gardens. Returning through Rue des Consuls, one of the main streets in medina we ended up near the Hassan Tower and Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the tower the minaret of an unfinished mosque and the mausoleum the burial place of the first two kings of modern Morocco. We finished the day with Christmas dinner at L'Entrecote, a French restaurant in Agdal, an upmarket suburb.
The following day we visited the small Archaeology museum with some bronzes from Volubilis where we were followed around by the local cat. We then headed to the atmospheric ruins of Chellah that were first part of a Roman city and later occupied by the Merinids. Nowadays the site mainly belongs to the storks that nest in every available site, their cries echoing throughout the necropolis.
The next morning we headed across the estuary to Sale (Rabats neighbouring city) in a small row boat that operated in a similar way to a grand taxi (departed once there were six passengers). Sale lacked the modern feel of Rabat with its traditional medina, almost completely free from the usual souvenir shops. After wandering though local markets we found ourselves near the Grande Mosque and Medersa. We were ushered into the medersa by one of the men outside and realised too late he was a faux guide. As it was too late to escape without forking over money we decided to make the most of his services as he showed us around the medersa and surrounding area (he did seem fairly knowledgeable). As we said goodbye he demanded 100 Dh from each of us that seemed rather high for an hours work. Afterwards we headed back to Rabat for another cake at one of the French style patisseries.
Arriving in Casablanca we noticed an immediate change from the relaxed atmosphere of Rabat. Checking into Hotel Rialto (140 Dh) opposite the art deco Rialto cinema we set out to explore the city walking past some of the Mauresque architecture (a blend of French and Moroccan architecture) and the large white cathedral (no longer used as a cathedral), a strange site in a largely Muslim city . We then headed by taxi to the modern Hassan II mosque, the third largest in the world (after Mecca and Medina which are closed to non Muslims). This striking monument was paid for by public donations and had high tech features such as a retractable roof as well as traditional mosaics and beautiful stucco work. We paid for the compulsory guided tour and were herded around the mosque like flocks of sheep (with tours in several languages).
We then headed to Ain Diab, Casablancas seaside suburb where we took a stroll along the corniche and walked down the long beach where local youths were playing football. We finished the afternoon with a visit to the Hammam Ziani where we treated ourselves to the works (steam room, scrubbing, seaweed treatment and massage). Feeling cleaner than wed ever been before we completed the day with a seafood dinner.
We decided to break up our journey to Essaouira with a day in El Jadida, two hours by bus from Casablanca. We checked into Hotel Royal (245 Dh, quite nice with a pretty tiled hallway and decent rooms) on the way to the Cite Portuguese, the old Portuguese built medina, a lot more European in appearance that the other medinas we had visited. The main site here was the atmospheric cistern which was used as a set in Orson Welles Othello (actually better than it sounds). After strolling around the medina ramparts Richard had a Moroccan haircut at a local barbers.
Five hours after leaving El Jadida on a very full CTM bus we arrived in Essaouira and were descended upon by the most aggressive bunch of touts we had ever seen (it was the day before New Years and locals were renting out spare rooms). Luckily we had booked at the pleasant centrally located Hotel Souiri (310 Dh, an increase from the usual price) and went with the lazy approach of chucking our luggage into the nearest cart. The guy pushing it took us straight to the hotel and we set out to explore the picturesque fishing town. Although the town was very busy and quite touristy it had not lost its charm. We spent a quiet few days exploring the medina and relaxing on the beach. We also tried horse riding on the beach (Richard was not keen to try another camel after the sore bum he had after our last camel ride) and had dinner at the open air seafood stalls piled high with fresh seafood (some of it still alive until the last moment such as the enormous crab we ate one night).
Returning to Marrakesh on the Supratours bus (entirely full of tourists) we once again set out into the souks to add to our already considerable pile of souvenirs. This time we stayed at Hotel Ali which seemed very popular with backpackers and trekkers and was always busy. Marrakesh was noticeably more busy than when we had first been there. On our final day we visited the Palais De La Bahia and the sub tropical Jarden Majorelle before watching the sun set in the Djemaa El Fna. Sad to be leaving we hauled our now large quantity of luggage (containing half the contents of a souk) to a taxi for the flight home.
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