Don't get me wrong, I wasn't disappointed in ANY way, shape or form, but I had spent the vast bulk of my money already, and was reduced to penny pinching techniques, and also had to elimintate the long awaiting "island hop" down the coast. I still made it to Hvar Island.
Arriving from Ljubljana with a splitting hangover, I checked in to what can only be accurately described as a hovel, rather than a hostel. I can't even begin to describe how horrible it was. But, I coped. Some people told me not to go to Zagreb...finger of shame! Whilst not as outwardly attractive or "touristy" as Budapest or Prague, it was not without it's charms. It had a good "big city" feel to it, and absolutely hopped at night. Cafe culture is very big there, and I drank coffee and ate ice cream with some curious locals.
The weather was not particularly kind (first rain I'd seen since Poland!), but that was not a hassle at all (in fact it was a relief). But I ambled about at my own pace soaking in the atmosphere. Went to the movies one night, to see they were playing "Ned Kelly" with Heath Ledger, a full 12 months after I'd seen it!
Taking the ever-so-fancy train to Split (on board entertainment, free lunch...the whole box and dice), I was apprehensive about finding accommodation in the only town in Europe without a hostel! It wasn't a hassle in the end, as I was mobbed by Babushka's at the station. I managed to find a decent room near-ish the old town area for about 90 Kuna. A little more than I wanted to spend, but it was fine.
Split was impressive...but I'd seen it all within a day. Nay, half a day. I spent a good portion of time waiting for the ferry to Hvar after I'd explored the market, the old town and surrounding parts. Split's Old Town was compact enough to see within an hour or two. Visited a couple of mini-museums, but nothing special. Worth a visit, but don't plan too much time here.
On Hvar, I eventually found my way to my hostel, and flopped down on the bed for a snooze. Eventually got back up and went for a swim at the "beach". Being an Aussie, I think beaches...I think sand, not great big rocks! Paddled about happily enough in the clear and warm waters. I visited the old town area...went for another swim...had a snooze, drank beers...snooze...swim...old town...beers...that was pretty much how it went. Got nice and drunk in the hostel with some fellas from Western Aus. Croatian beer is nice, and it's cheap. The hostel owners, 3 girls about my own age (early 20's) were a laugh, if not a trifle naive. But anyway, I had a fantastic time in Hvar, however brief it was.
Stupidly, I had pre-booked a bus to Dubrovnik from Split, as I didn't know I could catch the ferry from another port on Hvar! But anyway, the bus was comfortable, quick and not crowded.
Stayed at the HI hostel in Dubrovnik. A mistake. ONLY hostel I've ever been in with a curfew, and with a mini-dictator on the front desk in the evenings. 8pm and we're outside on the courtyard having a beer and a laugh...he comes to tell us to shut up. On my last night, I spent a lot of time letting people in through the side door as my room was next to it...
I liked Dubrovnik on the whole, even if it was packed to the gills with people. I went for a nice long wall along the top of the intact city walls! Took some great shots of the town, some of which are here. But, Dubrovnik was nothing if not pricey...eating and drinking was on a par with Australia.
I regret not seeing more of Croatia, especially away from the coastal south.
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