It is both a living chronicle of colonial history and a masterpiece of Spanish administrative and ecclesiastical architecture. It's fairly compact, so you can do a general orientation tour on foot in one day. It is often called "the city of balconies", for a balcony of unique design graces the second and higher floors of almost every building. Some old colonial administrative structures such as the Customs House and the Governor's Palace are still in use, while others have been converted into shops and simple residences. There are also a few newer commercial buildings. Monuments abound in leafy parks and squares depicting, among others, Columbus, Bolivar, and various heroes, including a famous Colombian poet.

There are several historic churches, probably the most recognizable being the austere yellow and ochre cathedral (1575) with its odd-shaped dome. You can't help wondering why, in view of the genuine piety of the Colombian people, it has become so shabby and rundown? When we visited there was a sign over the front door warning people not to enter, but to use a side door instead. The floor and walls were sadly in need of repairs, which I hear were finally begun in the late 1990s. I had to wonder: could it be that the cathedral had long represented an unwelcome Spanish ruling class? Or that it never completely recovered from the near destruction it suffered in 1586 at the hands of Sir Francis Drake, before he took off for Cadiz to "singe the Spanish king's beard"?

San Pedro Claver church (1603) is a different matter. It was built after Drake had long departed, and although humble it is much better maintained. Claver was a Spanish Jesuit who worked tirelessly against the wishes of the local hierarchy to bring better living and working conditions to the African slaves. He became the New World's first Saint. He's no mere historical abstraction: his skeleton is right there, permanently housed in a glass case built into the altar. He used to study and meditate in the church's garden. Today it is a tranquil place where visitors may find both beauty and serenity.

Near San Pedro Claver's church is the building which was formerly the palace of the dreaded Inquisition, and it provides chilling insights into the ecclesiastical excesses of the time. It's now a museum, displaying the Inquisition's torture chambers and devices, along with some illustrated explanations. We found the "witches' scale", suspended from the ceiling, of particular interest. On one side its beam holds a chair on which the woman accused of witchcraft would be placed: on the other side there is a hook on which the Bible hangs. If the woman proved to be heavier than the Bible, that was considered "proof" of her guilt. Needless to say, while we don't know how many women were charged and inevitably convicted, it's certain that there was never a shortage of women to be drowned or burned at the stake! To me a more interesting portion of the museum was the part dedicated to the city's military history.

There are other churches as well, such as the 16th century Santo Domingo, the oldest one still standing, and the Gold Museum, which we didn't get around to visiting.

Other noteworthy features of the old city are "las bovedas". These were a series of 23 caverns built into the thickest part of the walls, originally intended as military storerooms and as shelters for the civilian population in times of siege. Later livestock were kept there, and for a time they were the local prison, referred to as "the dungeons". Today they have been converted into well-stocked artisan and handicraft galleries, which used to do a good business during the heyday of visiting cruise ships.

I hope you have enjoyed this glimpse into the beautiful city which captured our hearts. We hope that within our lifetimes it will once again be possible to spend a safe and relaxing holiday among the happy people of Cartagena. We'll be among the first to go back!