Salzburg is one of the cosiest and picturesque towns on the planet, and that means tourists - it really is swarming with camera-carriers like myself. The majestic Hohensalzburg Fortress towers over the town. A steep rise leads to the entrance and once inside you realise its a mini village of its own, only with fantastic views of the surrounding hills and of the River Salzach.

The place is the home of some famous musician who could wangle a few chords back in the late eighteenth. Mozart's birthplace and residence have been left as shrines, and although small are impressive memorials.

The town in general makes for a great walk, with every street imbuing its own sense of personality, and they have one of two banks in the country that accept cash advances, which to my fortune happened to be the bank that owned the ATM that ate my credit card!