It's not just for movie stars and millionaires with yachts and money to burn: it's also an affordable cultural smorgasbord with rental apartments offering all the conveniences and comforts of home for those who are neither rich nor idle. It's jam packed in the summer, but not crowded at all in the winter. I've twice spent a month there, and would like to give you an indication of what it's like.
A BIT OF BACKGROUND Until the British "discovered" the French Riviera in the mid-1800s, there was little there except sleepy towns and fishing villages. All that changed with the arrival of the railway and Queen Victoria, who took a consumptive son there for rest and fresh air. Soon the Riviera became THE place for nobility to avoid the English winter.
Gradually other European monarchs and asorted aristocrats began to winter there and, with the added attraction of the resplendent casino in Monte Carlo, it acquired fame as the playground of the very rich. Lavish palaces were built in Cannes and elsewhere, and exiled Russian nobility became prominent residents of Nice. "Beautiful people" and authors soon followed.
During World War II the region was a beacon for Allied airmen escaping occupied Europe, and a broad second front was opened there in late 1944, after the Normandy invasion. Shortly after the war ended the Cannes Film Festival began, and actors, media figures, nouveau riche, and eventually even ordinary vacationers were added to the mix.
WHAT TO EXPECT TODAY Besides excellent wines, the water is always safe to drink. Getting around is a snap, since the region's infrastructure is first class. In addition to city and inter-city buses it is well served by many trains, including the "bullet" TGV. A toll autoroute passes just north of all the cities, and the regional highways are excellent. From Nice eastward you have your choice of three gloriously picturesque "corniche" highways at varying altitudes, whose bridges and tunnels from Monaco to the Italian border are engineering marvels.
Car rentals aren't expensive, but for long stays your best bet is the Renault or Peugeot buy/sellback plan, arranged here before you go. Just be careful NOT to use taxis, since they cost as much as the Euro equivalent of $10 per mile !
Although the French find February "cold", it's practically shirtsleeves weather to North Americans. Sportsmen applaud the fine quality golf courses, and those whom the sight of the Alps in the distance makes homesick can always take a day trip to some of the world's finest winter scenery. It's sort of like living in Vancouver or Seattle, without the rain!!
If you appreciate cultural activities, there are orchestras, theatre and ballet performances, museums, art galleries galore, and casinos both elegant and informal. Because of the climate and the pure light most of France's great artists have painted in this area, and some of their works adorn churches and other buildings.
ACCOMMODATIONS AND COST It's no longer just for the rich: depending on where you stay, there is something for everyone. The secret to escaping the cold in style is to choose from any of dozens of affordable "residences touristiques" (apartment hotels) scattered throughout the region. From simple to luxurious, there is something for everyone, with no unpleasant surprises, since quality is strictly controlled by the French government. Travel agents can find packages to suit any need. Riviera shopping offers as much variety as back home, although some manufactured goods may cost more. However, if you buy fresh produce at the local markets you can spend no more than you have spent to stay home and shiver, so you can afford to enjoy everything the Riviera has to offer.
In subsequent articles I'll tell you about a few of my favorite spots. And, finally, my apologies for the lack of accents on this computer -- sorry!
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