Snapshot of Nice

Nice, the administrative capital of the Riviera, is France's fifth largest city and its busiest passenger port, blessed with a healthy climate and a five kilometer-long beach. It was founded by Julius Caesar and fought over for centuries; then from the 1200s to the mid-1800s it was part of the Savoy-Sardinia kingdom, after which it joined France. With such a varied legacy it abounds in Roman, Italianate, classical and baroque palaces and churches, parks and gardens. There are outstanding museums devoted to Chagall, Matisse, and other primitive and modern artists.

After Nice joined France large numbers of British began to Winter there. They were joined by Russian nobility, whose St Nicolas cathedral is reputed to be the most beautiful Russian Orthodox church outside Russia. Nice is most renowned, though, as the flower capital of France, and the site of one of Europe's most famous pre-Lenten carnivals. Since I didn't get enough photos to do justice to such a large and varied city, this article will feauture only the Carnival.

The Carnival

It goes on for roughly two weeks, ending approximately when Lent begins (Mardi Gras). Although there are activities galore, most tourists go for the parades, of which there are two main sorts, held alternately four days a week along the seaside Promenade des Anglais or in the huge Place Massena. The "Battle of Flowers" reminds one of the Rose Bowl parade, but the ladies on these floats throw flowers to the onlookers, who throw them back -- thus the name. In the more traditional parade, dozens of enormous floats from all over the world serpentine their way around or past bleachers erected for the occasion. At the end of the Carnival, there is a parade of lights, followed by fireworks, and the burning of the "King".

When we visited the theme was vaguely "The Cinema", but there were lots of other floats too, a Carnival King, and clowns dressed as caricatures of politicians. Reservations are required for bleacher seats, since the parades attract tens of thousands of visitors. Parking is next to impossible, so we took a special tour bus from Cannes. It deposited us about two blocks from the action, and we were pleasantly amazed at how efficiently we were shown to our seats, and how easily we were able to depart when the parade had ended. For an overview of a recent Carnival, go to http://gofrance.about.com/od/holidayevents/a/carnaval2005.htm .

Saint-Paul de Vence

For centuries wars and marauders made life on the Riviera anything but idyllic. Farther inland and higher up, mediaeval settlers built many "perched villages" on crags and hilltops, often fortifyng them for protection. Most are mildly interesting, but like millions before us we fell in love with the most famous one of all, Saint-Paul. We were glad for the calm of winter, which let us savour its charms without the usual thousands of tourists.

Saint-Paul is a walled (mid-1500s) and fortified village (pop. c.2800), adjacent to the modern town of Vence. It has narrow streets, a famous Roman fountain, and perfectly preserved mediaeval buildings where dozens of artisans and others still live,work, and sell their products. Its 12th century Collegial Church has a painting by Tintoretto, and a beautiful 1740 bell tower. Next door is a collection of candid photos of famous visitors, from Bellefonte and Brynner to Sartre and Wilder. Modigliani and other artists of modest means used to exhange paintings for room and board at a small local establishment. It is now the famous Coulombe d'Or (Golden Dove) inn and restaurant, and on its walls hang works by a veritable "Who's Who" of 20th century artists, who often paid their bills with paintings. On a nearby hill within walking distance is the Maeght Foundation, a world-class musueum of modern art, which displays works by some of the 20th century's most renowned painters and sculptors. Here are two sites that will give you lots of useful information:

www.provenceweb.fr/e/alpmarit/stpaul/stpaul,htm and www.qcomet.com/photos/pierre/maeght/index.html .

Cagnes

Also very much deserving of a visit is nearby Cagnes-sur-Mer, the middle of three "Cagnes", where Renoir spent his final twelve yeas, then donated his studio and estate to the town. It is a popular picnic spot, where families can enjoy the shade of its venerable olive trees. For a small fee we toured the mansion,which contains some of his paintings, sketches and memorabilia, and has been re-furnished wih donations from friends and family.

We were in awe of his atelier, and what he was able to accomplish in spite of crippling rheumatoid arthritis, thanks to a special hydraulic chair. His servants would place him in the chair, tape the brush to his hand, and then move the chair up, down, or sideways, because that was the only way he could reach every part of the canvas. Unfortunately, I wasn't allowed to take pictures, but this outstanding place is not to be missed if you visit the Cote. www.teachnet.ie/cwinters/renoirlayers.htm .