April 2008. This is the third article in my series on the French Riviera in 2008.

Snapshot of Nice

Nice, the administrative capital of the Riviera, is France’s fifth largest city and its busiest passenger port (nearly 200,000 passengers per year), with the second most important airport in France (over 2.5 million passengers per year). It is blessed with a healthy climate, a five mile (8 km) beach, and over 700 acres (300 ha) of parks and gardens. Here is a good English-language source of additional information: www.provenceweb.fr/e/alpmarit/nice/nice.htm .

Settlements in the area go back thousands of years, but the makings of a city were probably begun by the Greeks or Romans. Nice was fought over by various groups for centuries; then from the 1300s to the mid-1800s it was part of the Savoy-Sardinia kingdom, after which it joined France. With such a varied legacy it abounds in Roman, Italianate, classical, and baroque palaces and churches. There are 19 major museums, second only in number to Paris.

After Nice joined France large numbers of British began to winter there. They were joined by Russian nobility, whose St Nicolas cathedral is reputed to be the most beautiful Russian Orthodox church outside Russia. Nice is most renowned, though, as the flower capital of France and the site of one of Europe’s most famous pre- Lenten carnivals. Since I didn’t get enough photos to do justice to such a large and varied city, this article will feature only the Carnaval (French spelling).

The Carnaval:

It goes on for two weeks, this year from 16 February to 2 March, and attracts more than a million visitors. Although there are activities galore, most tourists go for the parades, of which there are three sorts: the daytime Parade (Corso) and the Battle of Flowers, and the night-time Parade of Lights. They are held alternately on ten separate days along the seaside Promenade des Anglais. To see the schedule of 2008’s parades, go to www.cote.azur.fr/actualites/carnaval-nice_lang_en.htm (it’s in English).

The “Battle of Flowers” reminds one of California's Rose Bowl parade, but the ladies on these floats throw flowers to the onlookers, who throw them back -- thus the name. In the more traditional Carnival Parade (which was the only one I attended), dozens of enormous floats depicting that year’s chosen theme wend their way past bleachers erected for the occasion. On the last day there are fireworks and the ceremonial burning of the “King of the Carnaval”.

The theme this year was “Ratapignatas … ” (tr.) “Bats, cats, rats and other legendary creatures”. My personal interpretation was more like “Bats, rats, assorted varmints, monsters, and things that go ‘bump’ in the night”. I must admit that I didn’t find it as attractive this year as ten years ago, when the theme was “The Cinema” and the floats were absolutely spectacular. (And, unlike the Corso in Menton, there weren't many dancing girls). Nevertheless, these were animated, imaginative, “far out”, and provided almost two hours of good entertainment. Of course there was also a good selection of visiting dancers, marching bands, clowns, and other “personages”, political and otherwise.

If you go, be sure to use a tour bus, and buy your tickets early, in order to get seats in the grandstand. I was sure glad I did.