Exploring India: life on the edge

In the spring of 2008, I visited India for the second time. It had been almost twenty years between my visits. This time, I toured in Delhi, Japiur, Ranthambore, Agra, Kajaraho, Varanasi, Cochin, Bombay, and points in between, with an Overseas Adventure Travel group for three weeks. India offers us a glimpse of life on the edge, with its huge population living simultaneously in both yesterday and today. It presents us with surprising and sometimes shocking incongruities that fuels both thought and camera. If you've viewed the ... (more)

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Khajuraho Dawn
A rising sun is echoed in the design of an ornamental gate in the village of...

Village portrait, Khajuraho
This child never smiled -- she stared into my camera as if she had never seen...

Village street, Khajuraho
These children pay no heed to Coca Cola's advertising, which...

The Temples of Khajuraho
In the 10th Century, the remote village of Khajuraho was the center of the...

Temple facade, Khajuraho
The restored Chandela temples at Khajuraho are famous for their...

The streets of Varanasi
Varanasi, the holiest of India's Hindu cities, has little...

A pilgrim arrives in Varanasi
Bearing a red flag, a bearded religious pilgrim completes an arduous trip on...

Pollution, Varanasi
Pollution is a problem in Varanasi. These women are covering their...

Three in one, Varanasi
Three women share a rickshaw -- they carry balloons from a Hindu celebration.

Breakfast in Varanasi
Steaming pots of food line the streets of Varanasi early in the morning.

Street food, Varanasi
Deep fried breakfast delicacies are popular on the streets of Varanasi.

Religious posters, Varanasi
There are thousands of deities in the Hindu pantheon and each of them...

Varanasi street corner
This cyclist and his passenger pause for a portrait on a Varanasi street corner.

Rickshaw traffic, Varanasi
Long lines of cycle-driven rickshaws carry visitors and locals about...

In the shadows, Varanasi
Street portraits can emerge from odd places. I found this woman...

The Hotel Ganges, Varanasi
Varanasi, like all Indian cities, offers an abundance of hand lettered signs...

Cremation ghat, Varanasi
Sanctified by a belief in Shiva's presence and the sacred Ganges,...

Sacred light ceremony, Varanasi
As darkness falls on the Ganges, India's most sacred river, Hindu priests...

Saadhu, Varanasi
Saadhus are Hindu holy men -- renouncers who have left behind all...

Bathing in the Ganges, Varanasi
A morning bath in the Ganges is a purification ritual for Hindus. It...

Morning prayers on the Ganges, Varanasi
Devout Hindus wash and pray on the ghats of Varanasi every morning....

Dasashvamedha Ghat, Varanasi
This ghat, a series of steps leading to the Ganges, is Varanasi's holiest...

Toothbranches, Varanasi
I found this man sitting next to a pile of small branches. They are...

Street corner Saadhu, Varanasi
This Saadhu, a Hindu holy man, meditates on a Varanasi street corner....

Youth and age, Varanasi
An old man meditates on the loading dock of a closed bicycle shop,...

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article published 4/18/2008

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Wonderful as usual
Thanks for taking us back to India, Phil. You whet our appetites to return to this colorful country. The only problem is that we never see a place as well as you do!
— Bob Fairbanks, October 29, 2008

As OAT veterans & fellow Phil Douglas travelers, we have been beneficiaries of an exceptionally talented friend. These pics are the best! Thanks, Phil.
— Ronnie and Richard Fassberg, April 25, 2008

Incredible
Your photos and their description are superb.
— Thesailor, April 20, 2008

Bravo
I wouldn't even comment on your images. They are superb, and that is what I expect from a professional. I am not a professional. But I really enjoyed your comments in the description part of each image. These show that you are not just another tourist visiting India. You have depth, you understand the culture of the country, and above all you have a good sense of humor. Personally, more than the images I liked that part of your article - your writing skill.

About the picture entitled "Branches, Varanasi" -- those are Neem (Indian name of a plant) twigs. And they are not used for any kind of religious offering. Many Indians (specially villagers) use them for brushing teeth. They first chew up one end of the twig when they become like bristles of a brush. Then with those bristles they brush their teeth. Neem twigs are not only economical, the medicinal properties of Neem prevents many teeth and gum problems, such as gingivitis!
— Shoban Sen, April 19, 2008

fabulous photos, phil... as usual.. i have a trip planned to india this nov..about the same itin.. hope to get half as good photos as what you've skilfully captured..
— Jon J. Tan, April 19, 2008