Vauban (1633-1707)

You may be forgiven for not recognizing his name today, but he was one of the most important men in military history, probably as important to France 300 years ago as Nelson was to England a century later. Vauban was a soldier’s soldier, humanitarian, social thinker, and engineer extraordinaire. He joined Louis XIV’s army in his mid-twenties, rose swiftly, was appointed Governor of Lille in 1668, and Maréchal de France in 1703. He built 33 forts and fortified towns in both the North and South, modernized weaponry and tactics, ensured the welfare of his troops, and personally directed 53 sieges during that time of protracted warfare. His forts followed a star-shaped plan with moats, and without “blind spots” where attackers could hide. This layout was subsequently used by military architects elsewhere for two centuries. He also published writings on religious freedom and other social reforms, including suggesting a universal income tax: those activities eventually got him banished from Court, and he died a year later. Napoleon later paid him the supreme honour of having his heart entombed under the dome of Les Invalides in Paris – where you will also find Napoleon himself.

Of significance to Antibes were the upgrading and extension of its fortifications, construction of the breakwater, improvements to the existing “Fort Carré” (Square Fort), which made it virtually impregnable, and the layout of a port for military and commercial vessels which now bears his name.

Port Vauban

Centuries ago there was a tiny haven at Antibes from which Crusaders left on their way to the Holy Lands. Thanks to Vauban it became an important fishing and commercial port. Today Port Vauban is much more -- it's the largest marina in Europe, with probably more posh pleasure craft than anywhere else in the world. Fishermen have not been forgotten: 99 places nearest to the market are reserved for them. There are also more than 2,000 places for pleasure craft, which range from modest personal sailboats to impressive cruisers to many of the world’s most elegant luxury yachts. Looking over the number and variety moored there, I did a rough mental calculation, and estimated that they were worth close to a billion dollars. A guide told me that you can’t just arrive and rent a vacant spot: there aren’t any. Every spot is privately owned, and apparently the cost to buy one can be more than the price of the boat that is moored there. Apparently some owners pass them on in their Will. For a very good aerial view of the entire port, go to: www.boatbookings.com/yachting_content/antibes_port_vauban.php .

Fort Carré

This large star-shaped fortress stands on a hill separating the Port from the Baie des Anges: it overlooks the Mediterranean, Port Vauban, and Old Antibes. Starting as a rudimentary fort in the 1500s, it was built up and improved constantly over the centuries, most notably by Vauban in 1680, who added outer walls and ports for 18 cannons. It remained in service as a military fort until 1895, with accommodations for 50 officers and men. During World War II it was used as a staging point for those headed to concentration camps, then it was abandoned. In 1997 it was bought by Antibes for possible use as a sports or youth centre, but is now mainly a tourist attraction which is gradually being refurnished. For more information go to www.fortified-places.com/carre.html .