This piece of living history, only a short distance north-east of Nice at an altitude of ±600m, is an absolute “must” for anyone visiting the Côte d’Azur. It is authentic, unspoiled, and so incredibly picturesque that it is no wonder it receives 2 ½ million visitors per year: only Versailles and Mont Saint Michel welcome more.

Because of its defensible site, perched on a hill between Nice and nearby Vence and surrounded by valleys, this tiny settlement was a refuge from pirate and military attacks throughout the Middle Ages. By the 12th century it already had enough inhabitants to warrant construction of its Collegial Church of St Paul’s Conversion. Defensive fortifications were gradually erected, and other amenities such as fountains were added. In 1524 and 1536, Spanish troops invaded Provence, and it was decided to strengthen Saint Paul’s fortifications once and for all: in the 1540s the impressive ramparts that still surround the village were added. Thenceforth, Saint Paul became a “Royal City” and could only be entered through a well-defended “Royal Gate”. Subsequent years were for the most part peaceful, and living conditions were improved: for example, the Placette (“small square”) fountain was constructed in 1611.

In 1850 the “Grande Fontaine”, which had originally been built in 1615, was beautifully upgraded. It became symbolic of the village, and many consider it the most photogenic fountain in all of France. It is certainly the most frequently photographed.

As creative artists, especially painters, writers and actors, began to discover the benefits of living and working in Provence, many of those who would eventually become famous came to settle, at least for a time, in Saint Paul. Painters who lived there included Matisse, Chagall, Renoir and Dufy; well-known writers included Gide and Cocteau; and actors included Yves Montand, Simone Signoret and Roger Moore. Chagall liked it so much that he spent nearly 20 years there and is buried in the town’s cemetery.

Many artists were penniless, and paid for their accommodations and food with their paintings: today original masterpieces adorn the walls of the town’s best-known restaurant “La Colombe d’Or”. I didn’t have time to visit it, nor the Fondation Maeght, one of France’s premier centres for paintings and sculptures, outside the ramparts. Those will be for the next time.

Today the overall population of Saint Paul is about 2,800, with most living in the newer part outside the walls, while fewer than 400 live within the walls. Those lucky few enjoy a life of absolute tranquility, with virtually no motor vehicles to disturb them, and only the sounds of their own ateliers and the voices of visitors to disturb the silence. Thank goodness France has preserved this beautiful national historic site! For very complete sources of information in English, go to www.saint-pauldevence.com/tourism_uk.html or www.saint-pauldevence.com/history_saintpauldevence.html .