Having reached the Volga, the sight the greated us is an immense river. The ILYA REPIN was moving downstream on an immense river. We were roughly in midstream, but looking across to the shore to starboard or to port, even those distances would make quite a respectable rivers. But, before too long it became obvious that what we were looking at was in fact an artificial lake created by a dam.

The Volga, having been unable to provide sufficiently deep water during the summer months, was dammed wherever necessary to supply the extra needed water. Not only was there now enough water for the navigational needs, but also, every time a dam was built, the Volga provided a new source of hydro-electric power.

As we traveled along the Volga, we either passed river freighters going downstream, or met others moving upstream. In one of the little bays, just off the main boat channel, we even saw a fairly good-sized sailboat at anchor. Without having seen the river charts, I would suspect that there would now be little difficulty for a patient skipper to tack his way up or down the Volga no matter where the brise was blowing from.

At one point, having just sailed through yet another lock, we tied up at Uglich. Despite what the name might suggest to an English-speaking visitor, it it a lovely place. It was suggested to us that the name, likely, was derived from one of two sources. Either because the town is situated along a bend of the river the town was named after it("ugol" in Russian), or, possibly, it was named after its earliest inhabitants, members of the Finno-Ugric tribe which in Russian is called Uglichy.

Even though the part of the town we visited had the feeling of sleepy, peaceful back-country Russian town, it seemed to be an obvious destination of many tourists. On our way to the town centre, we walked along a path through a park. On either side of the pathway, there was a multitude of vendors exhibiting their wares on tables and shelves. Any touristy item the heart desired could be bought, Russian Dolls, fur hats, even furs of different kinds.

No doubt the towns long and usually violent history was one of the attractions of the place.

It's origins today are somewhat uncertain. One legend suggests that Princess Olga of Kiev founded the town and sent tax men there to collect money from the local population. Another suggests theat Prince Igor, also of Kiev, built a kremlin (fortification) here to defend Kiev's northern border.

Ancient chronicles record that in 1218 Uglich was destroyed by the invading Mongol-Tartars. Many other towns to the south having even worse troubles with these invading tribes, came north to escape this scourge and rebuit the town. They had hoped that they would be safer here in the forests of the north, but found that the town was sacked on several further occasions.

Then, when the Mongol-Tartar threat diminished in the early 1300s and Ivan the ruler of Moscow bought the town, he had the kremlin strengthened by having protective stone walls built. These enclosed a palace, a monastery, a church and a market place. It was a good time and the town thrived.

But other, violent incidents kept taking place. After the death of still one more Ivan,in 1584 he left two sons, the weak-minded Fyodor, and a baby called Dmitry. Fyodor became tsar but was incapable of ruling. This, for Boris Godunov, offered him the possibility to become tsar himself. But, fearing that the existence of the baby Dmitry could be a hindrance to his plans, he exiled Dmitry and his mother to Uglich. At the age of eight Dmitry was found dead in the grounds of the palace with a knife wound in his throat. Even though there were several inquiries, Boris Godunov was never accused of being responsible for the death.

Today, there are two churches in the centre of the town, one called "Dmitry-in-Blood", a memorial to that murdered Dmitry and the "Cathedral of the Transfiguration".