The Faces of Mexico (No. 1 of 13 articles) is an introduction to pictures from a 14-day Elderhostel program in Mexico called "Dia De Los Muertos in Oaxaca" celebrating of the Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, which has probably the largest such celebration, where we stayed seven nights. Three-night visits were also made to Cuernavaca and Tlaxcala. The program was in October and November 2008.

Elderhostel invites participants to "immerse yourself in celebratory rituals for the dead. Roam the halls of imposing palaces and awe-inspiring cathedrals. Embrace the mystery that lies beneath the region's surface in museums and archaeological sites. Absorb the varying differences in three of Mexico's most fascinating cities to discover the traditional significance that defines this intriguing culture."

When the Spanish conquered Mexico, celebrating the dead was so deeply rooted that they incorporated it into their "All Saints Day." Differing from the more somber holiday imposed by the Catholics, the pre-Hispanic Day of the Dead is a happy event where death takes on a friendly aspect. Children do not see it as frightening or strange. A child’s eyes light up while reaching for a skull-shaped candy similar to our Halloween "Trick or Treat."

Dia de los Muertos is Mexico's celebration for when dead relatives of all ages are allowed to return to the mortal world for two days to visit loved ones. The spirits are welcomed with food, decorated candies, and candles providing light to guide them home.

Gravestones are decorated, and in the cemeteries all family members will gather to welcome home the deceased. Entire families are there to water the flowers and clean the graves, eating and drinking quietly. The graves are decorated with gorgeous altars and some have carpets made of colored sand.

The festivities begin with the purchase of flowers, foods, and spices from the market to prepare the meals preferred by the deceased. A favorite is black molé with chicken or turkey. Varying between villages, pan de muerto (bread of the dead) is always made. The coffee cake decorated with meringue made to look like bones has skull-shaped candies and sweets, marzipan death figures and paper maché skeletons and skulls. The skull was considered a symbol of life, not death, in pre-Columbian Mexico. Tequila and atole, a traditional drink made from corn meal and water flavored with various fruits, are part of the festivities.

The indigenous people of Mexico believed that souls do not die but they are merely resting in Mictlan, the place of death. For them life was just a fleeting moment and unlike the Catholic belief of purgatory, Mictlan was a dark place, but not somber. The departed spirits were not waiting for judgment or resurrection but for an opportunity to revisit their homes and loved ones. While the spirits cannot be seen, their presence is certainly felt. Therefore, their families put on their best by offering the departed their favorite music and food as well as a visit.

Lights and flowers play a significant part in the ceremony. As the spirits leave Mictlan, they disperse through the mountains and plateaus of Mexico on an annual basis. To make their journey pleasant, relatives light candles throughout the night to help them find their way home. Fragrant flowers that emit a pleasant scent into the night air, like marigolds and cempazuchitls, are strewn in pathways to guide the souls to the feasts awaiting them back home.

An index of articles related to this trip can be seen at our home page: http://www.worldisround.com/home/jdtan/index.html

If you have any questions, email them to me at jdtanner@a5.com rather than including them in your remarks at the bottom of the photo page.

Diane Tanner