Oaxaca’s Churches is No. 5 of 13 articles being published with pictures from a 14-day Elderhostel program in Mexico called "Dia De Los Muertos in Oaxaca" celebrating of the Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, which has probably the largest such celebration, where we stayed seven nights. Three-night visits were also made to Cuernavaca and Tlaxcala. The program was in October and November 2008.

Elderhostel invites participants to "immerse yourself in celebratory rituals for the dead. Roam the halls of imposing palaces and awe-inspiring cathedrals. Embrace the mystery that lies beneath the region's surface in museums and archaeological sites. Absorb the varying differences in three of Mexico's most fascinating cities to discover the traditional significance that defines this intriguing culture."

PICTURED CHURCHES ARE DESCRIBED IN THIS TEXT.

Oaxaca traces its history at least 7,000 years back when about 20 diverse ethnic groups occupied the land. The Mixtecs and Zapotecs were the two most important groups. When the Aztecs arrived, they named the central valley Huaxyacac because of the huaje trees covering the land. When the Spanish arrived in the year 1521, they renamed it Oaxaca, a much more easily pronounced word.

The settlement was officially named a royal city in 1532. This area of Mexico was given to Hernan Cortes after the Spanish Conquest, in return for his services to the Spanish Crown. Oaxaca was also the home of Benito Juarez, originally a servant-boy to an affluent family who become President of Mexico and one of Mexico's most revered historical characters. Oaxaca gained prominence in the colonial era because of its location as a gateway to Central and South America as well as its rich landscape, intricate textiles and rumored gold mines.

The State of Oaxaca has a population of about 4 million, while Oaxaca City has about a half million residents.

Oaxaca has nearly perfect weather all year with tropical sunlight almost daily and ideal temperatures because of its location about 5,500 feet in elevation. Oaxaca State is in the Sierra Madre mountains with the Pacific Ocean touching its southern shoreline.

Santo Domingo Church and Museum are described in a separate article. All the churches referred to here are located in the historic center of Oaxaca.

Oaxaca’s Metropolitan Cathedral is sometimes referred to as The Cathedral of the Virgin of the Assumption. Construction of this church began in 1702 with consecration in 1733. The prior two structures were destroyed during earthquakes. Its facade is made of a quarried green stone used on many other Oaxacan buildings. The interior is in Neoclassical style. The altar features a statue of Our Lady of the Assumption which was made in Italy. There are 14 chapels, and the most famous is dedicated to “El Señor del Rayo.” The cross hung in this chapel comes from the original cathedral and was the only object not incinerated when a lighting bolt set fire to the church.

The Basilica de la Soledad is the most important religious site in the state of Oaxaca. It has a 79-foot high Baroque façade and a heavily gilded interior. It was built between 1682 and 1690 to house the holy image of the Virgin of Solitude (Soledad), the patron saint of Oaxaca.

The statue inside the church in a glass-enclosed shrine is decorated with 600 diamonds and topped with a four-pound gold crown. Her vestments are encrusted with peals. During the 1980’s thieves removed her jewel-studded crown; she now has a replica of the original crown. A major festival on December 18 honors the Virgin who is believed to have the power to heal and work miracles. According to legend, the image of the Virgin was found in the pack of a mule that sat down on an outcropping of rock and refused to get up. When the image was discovered, the Virgin appeared, and a basilica was constructed to commemorate the event. The outcropping of rock is surrounded by a cage of iron bars immediately to the right when entering the Basilica.

The concave facade of the Basilica projecting forward from the building is unique in Mexico's religious architecture. The way the top is rounded and the tiers are divided suggests an imitation in stone of the traditional carved wooden folding altarpieces common in Mexican churches.

Attached to the church is a former convent with a small religious museum exhibiting the Virgin's dresses, offerings and small paintings done in her honor.

The Templo de la Compania of Jesus is located across the street from the southwest corner of the Zocalo. The church was built in the 16th century by Jesuits and maintained by the order until they were expelled from Mexico in 1767.

San Juan de Dios Church is the oldest church in Oaxaca still standing. It was completed in 1703. It is known for its paintings depicting Biblical events and the conquistadores’ arrival in Oaxaca.

Temple of the Blood of Christ (Sangre de Cristo Templo) is on the pedestrian shopping street. Its main façade has an ornate, multilevel entryway and three towers with small steeples. The interior has a single nave with a barrel vault.

Nuestra Señora de las Nieves Church was formerly part of the College of San Juan. The church was first built in 1579 and renovated in 1770. It has characteristics of both renaissance and baroque architecture.

The Church of San Augustin was completed in 1722. I never found the church open, although I did visit it on a later trip to Oaxaca.

Carmen Alto (Upper) Church was built about 1670 to house Carmelite friars on the site of a temple dedicated to the goddess of corn and fertility. The Spanish destroyed the temple to allow construction of the church. In Neoclassical style, it houses the Virgin of Carmen and other religious paintings. In the 1850’s the convent was secularized and became the property of the federal government, serving as a jail and a cavalry barracks. The church has been restored and is open for public worship.

Guadalupe Sanctuary on the north side of Llano Park was inaugurated in 1644 venerating the Virgin of Guadalupe. The main celebration occurs on December 12.

Nuestra Señora del Patrocinio (Patronage) Church is on the southeast side of Llano Park. The architectural layout of the 18th-century building consists of a single nave covered by barrel vaults. The main facade consists of a portal and two slender towers. The earthquakes of 1928 and 1931 left it in ruins. It was left that way until it was restored in 1985.

Carmen Abajo (Lower) Church was built on lower ground than Carmen Alto (Upper) Church. Carmen Alto was attended by the Spanish colonists while Carmen Abajo ministered to indigenous and mestizos populations. This church is shaped like a cross.

An index of articles related to this trip can be seen at our home page: http://www.worldisround.com/home/jdtan/index.html

If you have any questions, email them to me at jdtanner@a5.com rather than including them in your remarks at the bottom of the photo page.

Diane Tanner