Elderhostel invites participants to "immerse yourself in celebratory rituals for the dead. Roam the halls of imposing palaces and awe-inspiring cathedrals. Embrace the mystery that lies beneath the region's surface in museums and archaeological sites. Absorb the varying differences in three of Mexico's most fascinating cities to discover the traditional significance that defines this intriguing culture."
Mexico celebrates Dia de los Muertos, the Day of the Dead, when dead relatives of all ages are allowed to return to this world for two days to visit loved ones as spirits come back to walk among the living, sample treats, and join in the festive activities. This occurs on November 1 (All Saints Day) and November 2 (All Souls Day). The deceased children are remembered with toys and colorful balloons on their graves. Deceased adults are honored with displays of their favorite food and drinks as well as ornamental and personal belongings.
Oaxacans living in other parts of the world who are able to return for only one celebration during the year, try to be with their families at this time. Oaxaca is one of the few places in the world that preserves these customs and traditions, which is why it has become a favorite destination for the Day of the Dead.
Oaxaca yearly is visited by thousands of strangers eager to witness their ceremonies in affirmation of life and what comes after. Visitors who come to learn about a culture different from their own and respectfully observe and appreciate all of the color and pageantry are welcome to spend time in cemeteries to enjoy the beauty of the decorations and the delicious food of the season.
The traditions associated with the Day of the Dead reflect the Mexican belief in the duality of life and death. While they mourn and miss their dead loved ones, they also believe that death is just an extension of life. It’s part of a natural progression, not an end. The dead continue to exist and return annually to visit their loved ones. Many of the customs such as home altars and cemetery vigils are to help them find their way and to welcome them home.
The Mexicans welcome their families’ spirits with the smell of food in the air, tasty candies decorated like skulls, favorite foods of their departed family member, and lighted candles to guide them home again. The whole family will gather in graveyards to await and pay respects to the dead, whose gravestones are decorated.
Other symbols include the elaborately-decorated pan (bread) de muerto (a rich coffee cake decorated with meringues), skull-shaped candies and sweets, marzipan death figures and papier maché skeletons and skulls. Pre-Columbian people of Mexico saw the skull as a symbol of life - not death. Now these macabre symbols and other similar items fill the shops and candy stalls by mid October. During this time, homes are often decorated in the same manner as the graves.
At cemeteries the graves and altars are prepared by the entire family. Candles are lit, the ancient incense copal is burned, prayers and chants for the dead are intoned, and then drinks and food are consumed in a party/picnic-like atmosphere. At 6:00 pm, the bells begin to ring every 30 seconds, summoning the dead, and they continue ringing throughout the night. At sunrise, the ringing stops and those relatives who have kept the night-long vigil go home.
Each family builds and decorates an ofrenda (altar) each year, which can be at home or at the cemetery. There is a special market on October 31 selling only materials for the altars and other necessities for this season. A typical altar begins with a table on which are placed boxes to represent the tombs and all is covered with a white tablecloth or sheet or with paper cutouts with special themes related to the season. Long stalks of sugarcane are tied to the front legs of the table and formed into a large arch over the altar, which are then decorated with flowers. The images of the saints and the family dead are placed on the altar and everywhere there are flowers: The golden flower of death, the Zempoalxochitl or Zempasúchil, a very large golden marigold, is the most prevalent color on the altar.
The special offerings of food may include mole, pumpkin cooked with brown sugar, cane sugar, decorated pan de muerto, chocolate, pecans, peanuts, and fresh fruits. If the deceased smoked or drank, then cigarettes or mescal are placed on the altar together with any other special foods or items, which were a favorite in life. Then come the lamp with oil and wax candles in white or yellow adorned with black crepe paper. An especially elaborate altar may also feature a colored sand and seed painting on the floor in front of it representing a particularly important saint. Altars always include candy skulls and wood or clay figures depicting skeletons dressed as doctors, judges, teachers, footballers, tennis players, prostitutes and every conceivable occupation.
Oaxaca traces its history at least 7,000 years back when about 20 diverse ethnic groups occupied the land. The Mixtecs and Zapotecs were the two most important groups. When the Aztecs arrived, they named the central valley Huaxyacac because of the huaje trees covering the land. When the Spanish arrived in the year 1521, they renamed it Oaxaca, a much more easily pronounced word.
The settlement was officially named a royal city in 1532. This area of Mexico was given to Hernan Cortes after the Spanish Conquest, in return for his services to the Spanish Crown. Oaxaca gained prominence in the colonial era because of its location as a gateway to Central and South America as well as its rich landscape, intricate textiles and rumored gold mines.
The State of Oaxaca has a population of about 4 million, while Oaxaca City has about a half million residents.
Oaxaca has nearly perfect weather all year with sunlight almost daily and ideal temperatures because of its location abut 5,500 feet in elevation. Oaxaca State is in the Sierra Madre mountains with the Pacific Ocean touching its southern shoreline.
Oaxaca has been described as owing its popularity to its architecture, its cultural traditions, its large variety of regional food, and its temperate weather.
An index of articles related to this trip can be seen at our home page: http://www.worldisround.com/home/jdtan/index.html
If you have any questions, email them to me at jdtanner@a5.com rather than including them in your remarks at the bottom of the photo page.
Diane Tanner
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