We are sitting in the small circle of our campfire reading Banjo Patterson. The soft whisper of the wind through the trees and the sound of water falling over rocks in the nearby creek seems fitting background music to Banjo’s poetry.
It is late August and I am at the Gregory Brook Hut on the Bibbulmun Track between Balingup and Donnelly River in Western Australia’s South West with two friends, Bernard and Trish.
When I joined them on Friday morning at Southampton Bridge just south of Balingup, Trish had been walking for five days and Bernard had been on the Track for four weeks. Nearly halfway through his nine week walk along the 964 kilometre Bibbulmun Track from Kalamunda to Albany, Bernard was looking fit, healthy and happy.
The challenging up hill walk within the first hour, with sweat pouring out of every pore and my leg muscles screaming at me to stop or take the twelve kilogram pack off my back, had me wondering how I was going to cope for the next two days on the Track.
However as the day unfolded, so did my enjoyment of the experience. The flush of colourful wildflowers, bird song, the gentle cooling breeze, the canopy of trees, the log we sat on for lunch, the handful of dried fruit, the intoxicating smell of a patch of Boronia, the light drizzle of rain, the trickling water in a creek we crossed, the magnificent towering Karri trees, the space for my own thoughts, the welcome sight of the hut at the end of the day, and most of all the constant comfort of the company of my friends and the Track itself.
The Bibbulmun Track is Western Australia’s longest walking track, stretching from Kalamunda in the Darling Ranges near Perth, to Albany on the south coast, traversing some of the South West’s most beautiful forests and wilderness, over varying terrain through shady valleys to mountains with 360 degree views and spectacular coastal scenery. It has become a Western Australian icon since it was opened in 1979 after Geoff Schafer presented the idea for the Track to the WA Minister for Forests in 1972. Further upgrades and extensions followed in 1988 and 1993-98.
Even though the Track is almost entirely through wilderness areas, it can be walked in relative safety. It is easy to follow the directional markers which are placed approximately 200 metres apart on trees or posts. The triangular reflective yellow markers feature a black stylised “Waugal” (rainbow serpent). They give you a sense of security knowing you are “on track”. Walkers are advised to check their bearings or double back to the last Waugal if they don’t see one for 500 metres (approximately 8 minutes of walking).
The Track is maintained to a high standard by track volunteers, and passes through nine towns. Vehicle assess points, make it suitable for a short stroll, day walk, or overnight hike, so more people can experience our natural environment, not just those wanting an adventurous trek. Three sided timber overnight huts are conveniently placed about 15 to 20 kilometres apart, a comfortable day’s walk.
Bernard walked for 62 days on the track. “Overall what I enjoyed most was that every day was different, each presented its own challenges and gave its own rewards. I really enjoyed having different people with different interests walk the different weeks with me. Twelve friends walked a part of the way with me and they were all great. I would recommend the walk to everyone.”
In conclusion, Bernard agrees with Trish, “You come to realise how little you actually need to not only survive, but more that survive, and be happy and contended in the surroundings. That is just amazing when you think about it”.
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