My grand parents were amongst the first people to settle in the green town of Bongaigaon. In their times, Bongaigaon was truly a magnificent slice of ecological purity offering one of the greatest concentrations of plant and animal diversity. As a place, it was just a small hamlet, but was surrounded by many villages with isolated populations. But as a nature island, it was a part of a much larger area with variety of species of trees, plants and wildlife, which formed the wild landscape of the undivided Goalpara district. Extensive but low density cattle grazing had done little damage to have changed the essential character of the landscape, except may be at isolated places.

During the rainy months, a wealth of fish filled the water bodies. It was time for us to move out with the fishing rods as soon as the incessant rain stopped for a while. The wet bodies of herds of buffaloes, shined like grey beads in the grass fields and marshlands. The granite cave of Bageswari jutting out of the hill looked like an ancient fortress. There was abundance of creatures and plants all around. Notwithstanding the rains, we were always thrilled by the sense of freedom and vastness of the wilderness that accompanied the season.

After tramping through the mud of countless paddy fields, we used to find our desired destination, a pool of water with herds of fish in numbers we had only imagined about. Many a times we came across plants and insects that we had never seen before. The high canopy of the nut-laden beetle-nut tree-tops provided a wide profusion of bird life. Woodpeckers, bats, hawks, sparrows and countless species of insects were seen constantly foraging and feasting on a frenzy of life unseen in any other part of the town. Rabbit, squirrel, fox, mongoose and a variety of animals could be seen as well as dazzling dragon flies, green and brown grass hoppers and brilliantly coloured kingfishers dashing to the water with their peculiar alertness and spectacular speed.

Climbing the Bageswari hill never seemed to be difficult despite our tender age. As we used to move to the other side of Bageswari, trees and plants began to increase, both in number, density and in height. Thick underbrush growed in wild profusion beneath the light canopy above. As the foothill eased out into broad plains and lowlands, came the tumultuous riot of butterflies. The least disturbed eastern part of the town neighbouring the tea garden contained some of the most significant bird colonies and resting sites. Here the forest was relatively dense with the foothill forming an almost continuous line fringing the tea plantations.

A dry and hard grassland from September to April, the foothill of Bageswari was flooded by rains into vast shallow marshland dotted with trees and shrubs protruding out of the water. But river Tunia was where the true magic and boundless beauty of water life revealed them. It was a place where we could expect the most unexpected! Around the river, we entered a bustling world of colour. The rainbow hued insect-eating fish, the many lined sweetlips and the ever agile otters, everything appeared friendly and within reach. The streams coming out of Bageswari hills eased their flows to join the Tekanjhora which curled and coiled through the vast paddy fields to join the Tunia in the midst of the tea garden of Birjhora.

Nature continues to stimulate Bongaigaon through the seasons. While Bageswari has also suffered its share of exploitation, at least the eastern part of the hill still largely remains as we had found it years back. But today, as rain pelts the dirt filled town, months of accumulated garbage and wastes are released from the dumps to blend with the freshly washed soils. While at places the town’s wild, pristine character appears enduring, new challenges of all kinds continue to arise. Evidence of man’s intrusion can be seen almost everywhere. Some of the subtle signs of man’s interference may not be so immediately obvious, but substantial ecological damage is done here by people as well as by un-mindful developmental works.

Protection is needed to ensure the future of one of lower Assam’s significantly prosperous regions. Hardly any positive effort is being made to reverse the degradation, caused by man-spawned activities. The increasing popularity of the town as a growing commercial centre has brought problems ranging from sewage disposal to damage of green cover by settlers. Run-off from agricultural pesticides and fertilisers, soil erosion and pollution has affected the town community.

The future of small towns like Bongaigaon, and in case of so many other similar places, will be a constant challenge of balancing the demand of nature and of man. Today it is an environment reflecting an infinitely complex meshing of mutual needs and interdependencies, constantly seeking such a balance and harmony. At the places like the Bageswari hills and Birjhora tea gardens, the balance so far appears to hold firm. But for how long?

Photos by the author