Tracy Arm is considered one of the most beautiful sites in Alaska. It's a magnificent fjord just south of Juneau, a thirty mile long waterway that was carved by glaciers during the last Ice Age, a mere 11,000 years ago.

It was a beautiful morning as we slowly made our way into Tracy Arm, then continued our way up the Inside Passage.

That's the good news. We'll get to the bad news a bit later.