Thousands tourist were used to spend their holidays on Dalmatian Coast in a country formerly called Yugoslavia. In 1991-92, spectre of War got back to haunt the place and put an end to this golden age. Already 10 years, only 10 years that Croatia declared its independance towards Yugoslavian Federation. In 1991, Serbs refused this fact and lauched attacks against Croatia in order to "protect" the Serb minority in this area. Starting from October 1991 to May 1992, and sporadically until 1995, Dubrovnik, the Adriatic Jewell, received thousands shells from Yugoslavian ( Serb and Montenegrin ) army under incredulous look of the World. To attack Dubrovnik and Dalmatian coast was a double crime. Dubrovnik Area was not a strategic place and this agression was symbolic. The tourist resort districts was bombed in priority. The Old Town, caught between sea and hight mountains, received so many shells that nobody could believe Dubrovnik would ever recover its initial aspect. A treasure was dying. After Dayton agreements in 1995, renovation workouts started in Dubrovnik and around, thanks to Unesco help and a real miracle that occured there. Each building has been rebuilt as the same as before. The only element that testifies of the events in Dubrovnik now is the flashy orange color of the new roofs and maybe a few details ( a few released houses and some marks of bomb splinters on a few walls in the hotels district, if we look well ). The place is absolutly wonderful, preserved and now safe. Thousands quiet coves, luxurious nature, an almost permanent sun, and the nice impression to discover again this paradise before waves of tourists come again. I hightly recommand those who like to spend their holidays in an original and exceptional place to visit Dalmatian Coast; they can be sure they won't take any risk by getting there. But a few scares in small villages, nothing could remind the tragedy of 1991-92 and it's difficult to believe we're only a few kilometres away from Bosnia, which is so different. Until Split ( 200 km from Dubrovnik up to the North ), thousands Islands run along the coast, each one of it has its own caracteristics and its own nature but the commun point is that every Island is a small paradise. It would be fool to believe dangerous having a stay here nowadays even if we're so close to the Balkan powder horn ( that testifies once again of the striking contrasts between all the countries of Former Yugoslavia ). Life is absolutly normal in this area nowadays. In Dubrovnik, restaurants, pubs and discos run along the small streets. Most of hotels has been renovated ( but a few buildings, among it the famous Hotel Libertas, shelled in 1992 and never rebought and renovated. This vision, at the middle of a lovely lanscape is quite impressive ) tourism is increasing again, especially this year, but we still have time to visit Croatia quietly. Tourism is not close to reach its pre-war level. In spite of a rapid recovery, Croatia has been economically damaged by the 90's conflict. Unemployment concerns 23% of inhabitants and poverty, if not striking, is the daily stuff of a great part of the population. Tourism increase is a great hope in Croatia. Since Franjo Tudjam, the former nationalist president, died in 1999, normalisation in Croatia is getting faster. The new president Stipe Mesic launched some reforms to open the country, going on the right way to join EU ( a country like Croatia may be accepted in EU in the next ten years...), and even facilitates the return of some Serbs refugees. On the other hand, like in every other countries of Former Yugoslavia, nationalism is still stongly anchored in people's minds. Propaganda about the war, like in the others neighbouring countries, is still important. Most of people I met, young as well as older, told me they would never forgive what had been done to their Nation. Croat people may seem a bit austere at first but are very cultivated and finally helping and friendly persons. Croatia is a new and beautiful nation, grouping thousands wonders and promised to an optimistic future. Let's hope War and Nationalism, so frequent in this part of the World, will not waste all those treasures anymore. Anyway, let's enjoy the moment by appreciating this so particular country for its natural and archirectural wonders.