Amsterdam is just that kind of city. She lures you and charms you and then later, after you leave, she haunts you. I honestly can't tell you what I expected of Amsterdam when I stepped on that plane in San Francisco. I had heard so much about this incredible city. It is a city full of juxtaposition. It embraces both old and new in such a unique fashion.
As our threesome gathered our bags and started to head down the Damrac (the heart or major thoroughfare through Amsterdam), towards our rented apartment just off Warmestratt, we soaked in all the sights and sounds and smells of Amsterdam. The Damrac is a bustling area with constant motion 24/7. I was somewhat disappointed in that it looked like any typical tourist trap. Then Dave tugged at my sleeve and headed us off down a small alley, over a tiny little bridge and our first canal. We emerged from the alley onto Warmestratt a adorable little bohemian street filled with coffeeshops, nightclubs, food establishments of all ranges, little boutiques and these unbelievable stores called "smart shops". I will go into our experience with some of these smart shops later.
We turned down a tight little alley to find our quaint little apartment. We were early in meeting Chris and Gerard, whom we were to get the keyes from, so Dave lead us down the other end of the alley and BAM! There we stood in the heart of the Red Light District! As we strolled down the street, we started across the courtyard of the Oude Kerk and to my amazement and surprise the courtyard of the church was lined with windows facing the church. Red lights looming from the windows and silouettes of women dancing and inticing possible business. As a woman, it was a very interesting experience walking through the red light district. I never once felt scared even with huge bands of men in parties of 6 to 12 walking around. The women also would never make eye contact with you as a woman walking through. But for our friend Dave...it was a totally different experience. He was constantly hussled and tempted into entering one of those red lit doors.
We strolled further down the canal and decided to stop in one of Amsterdams infamous coffee shops. Now if you've never been to Amsterdam...these coffee shops are not know for their coffee. Coffee shops in Amsterdam sell drinks and legal soft drugs, mostly marijuana and hash. As we entered the Green House Effect, and stepped down into the main parlor, we found a cozy corner in which tiny colored lights blinked in the ceiling and walls around us. The table shaped like a large mushroom was also glowing from within. We soon had our first lessons in coffee shop etiquette. The drinks and the pot are sold at two different bars and as a courteous to the establishment you should always order a drink before sitting down to smoke.
It is in these coffee shops in which I began my love affair with Amsterdam. And that's not just because of the good smoke. It is within the walls of these establishments in which the Amsterdam juxtaposition takes place. You enter into one of these establishments and it is housed in building which date back to the 1500's. In some way these mavericks have taken the old architecture and have melded into these beauties the most amazing interior design concepts I have ever seen. Beautiful unique metal light sculptures with imaginative decorative designs. One of the coffee shops called the "Rokery" is so atmospheric. You feel as if you have entered the casba. Very Moorish in design, arabian textures and artifacts, slow moving ceiling fans, and small nooks for privacy. The other element that these establishments use is music. Just amazing music...everywhere. Techno, house, hip-hop, trance, ambient, jazz fuzed with trance, jazz fuzed with ambient...the list is endless.
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