An authentic place is a combination between tradition, beauty of Nature and pureness of local people. This kind of place is so rare nowadays. We could even ask ourselves if this kind of country still exists in our sad world I would reply yes, at least one : Cape Verde.

Cape Verde archipelago remains unknown by most of travellers.

Located 500kms away from Senegal, in Atlantic ocean, visiting this 10-islands archipelago is flabbergasting according to many aspects. The extreme concentration of culture and varieties on this scrap of Southern America and Africa separation is absorbing. Former Portuguese colony and independent since 1975, Cape Verde is a mix between African and European cultures. Here, woman carry their children on their back like in African countries but are mostly dressed like in Occident. Just after its colonization, Cape Verde was just a stopping-place for African slaves, then transported to the American continent. Then, during the progressive installation of Portuguese settlers, European and African population was mixed and gave a half-breed people. In some islands, like Santiago, people are definitely black, and in some others, for example Sao Vicente or Fogo ( where some inhabitants are blond-haired ), they look more like Latinos. Differences of landscapes, faun, people, music, language, traditions etc between all the islands are definitely incredible. From an island to another, it s like trips over several countries. The official language is Portuguese, but the spoken language is Criolo, a mix between Portuguese and some expressions took from African dialects.

More than the wonderful and varied landscapes ( deserts, volcano, jungles ), kindness of people is absolutely marvellous and would almost be close to naivety ( from our Occidental point of view ). Cape Verde is a poor country, but people here have a richness that the Occidental World doesn't have and that is the most important in the life : happiness ! Inhabitants live in destitute conditions, unemployment strikes a great part of the population and dryness is the main problem there, but Cape Verdian's generosity is legendary. Arriving in small and extremely groundless villages, and being invited by the whole population is an unforgettable experience. The only risk by passing down the poorest places is to leave from there completely drunk, after drinking many grogs ( the local drink, easily more than 60% alcohol) offered by the local inhabitants. Here, conviviality is the main way to live.

At night, in every small city, and on each island, occur improvised public parties, most of time on the main squares, in many bars or on the beach. During these privileged moments, we can appreciate the extreme quality and variety of Capeverdian music, often with some powerful loudspeakers and without any troubles with the local authorities. Capeverdian people know how to have fun until late in the night. Young people, if fond of American music ( especially rap, hip-hop and reggae ), are also still attached to traditional music and they would dance with a rap song as well as on the last Cesaria Evora's success.

Cape Verde republic, if poor, is a model of democracy and safety in Africa. Diseases and insects are far less numerous than inside the African Continent. Nevertheless, a foreigner has to keep in mind Cape verdian people's daily difficulties, and has to respect them, their traditions and their hospitality. A tourist will never leave "Cabo Verde" without a nostalgic feelings and many regrets.

Nowadays, its still not that easy to get to Cape Verde Islands from everywhere in the World. We are lucky in Europe to have a direct flight from Paris, Munich, Amsterdam, Milano and Lisboa. From the others countries, every traveller has a flight change in Lisbon. The Cape verdian International Airport, built with the help of South Africa former government ( during Apartheid, this airport was the only allowed stopping place in the African continent, for the planes coming from South Africa ) and then with the funds of Occidental countries, is located in Sal Island. This stones desert is perfect to welcome important landings. On the other hand, Sal is certainly the less interesting island of Cape Verde. Here, tourism, if not massive, is growing fast and already took off a part of the authenticity from people and from the Island itself. Later, I never felt this impression in the others Islands. Most of European tourists stop there, in Santa Maria white sandy beach, where are located some luxurious resorts, only for an 8-days beach stay. But the wonderful Salinas ( great salt pans with multi-colours waters from colonization. Before tourism expansion, salt exploitation was the main source of revenues in Sal Island ), the rest of this Island is depressively dry and flat. By arriving from Paris in Sal Airport, and just before to take another plane to Santiago Island on the same day, I took a taxi, then in 3 hours, I had already seen everything there. On the other hand, Sal is a paradise for surfing and diving.

Santiago Island, where is located Praia city, capital of Cape Verde, reserves many discoveries, far more interesting. Santiago is culturally speaking the most African island of the Archipelago, also regarding its traditions. Praia, the biggest Capeverdian city, centralizes all the institutions. At night, I found it surprisingly quiet but starting from 7 oclock in the morning, everything raises at the same time. In every part of the city resonates music. We can appreciate a walk through the historical and colonial centre ( the coloured houses by the morning give an exceptional show ), stopping in the numerous markets that remind so much African Countries.

After passing through the poor suburbs of Praia, landscapes alternates luxurious nature, with incredibly colourful flowers, bananas plantations and palm forests, with dry mountains that remind American canyons. Inside the Island, paved road ( in Cape Verde, all the roads are hand-made ) gets up and down and grazes numerous precipices. At the middle of Santiago is Assomada, the second city of the Island that is to my mind the ugliest Capeverdian town because of its numerous unachieved building and its dirtiness. Then, after a wonderful show given by a combination between red mountains and deep valleys sometimes green, the road reaches Tarrafal, a lovely village, located in a small bay and where most of Santiago inhabitants are used to spend their holidays. The place is a bit crowded during every week-ends but quiet during the week. This is a beach resort mostly for local people so still authentic and good for a break. There are also a very few foreign tourists. In the centre of Tarrafal village, square and the numerous picturesque bars are lively until late in the night. On the extreme noth of the Island is located a black-stones beach, Praia de Fazenda, where I could be ensured to be on my own. By getting back to Tarrafal by another way inside the country side and passing trough authentic villages incarnating the African influence of Santiago and located in a green valley, a visitor can meet an amazing faun, especially some grasshoppers that were more than 15cms long ( quite impressive at first, I thought first it was birds ). The west coast road is also interesting. In this part of the island, great irrigation systems have been set, and great plantations of various tropical fruits and vegetables spread along the road. The coast is extremely outlined and geology along the sea is sometimes similar to Iceland, as strange as it may seems ( Cape Verde, as well as Iceland, Canaries and Azores islands, is a volcanic archipelago located on the Atlantic Dorsal ).

This road also passes along Santiago Rebels community. This group of persons was named rebelados in the 40s, during the Portuguese influence, to have refused the new catholic educative system and kept some customs and rites that were prohibited at that time. Nowadays, they still live out of time, without listening to the radio, watching TV or using modern medicine. Step by step, this community is disappearing because no many young people remain faithful to this way of life

Santiago, the biggest island of Cape Verde is definitely fascinating, full of wonders and contrasts. It s quite easy and cheap to visit it by using collective taxis and by that way, getting involved in Capeverdian daily life for amazing experiences.

* AFTER YOU HAVE READ THIS ARTICLE, KNOW MORE ABOUT CAPE VERDE BY VISITING THE RELATING ARTICLES ON THIS SITE :

Boa Vista, the sand island : http://www.worldisround.com/articles/6740/index.html

Santo Antao, the wild island : http://www.worldisround.com/articles/6741/index.html

Fogo, the lava island : http://www.worldisround.com/articles/6742/index.html

Sao Vicente, the music island : http://www.worldisround.com/articles/6743/index.html Please have also a look to my others Worldisround pages to discover various destinations : http://www.worldisround.com/home/pietri/index.html