Fogo island is another aspect of Cape Verde, the second colonised island and the best illustration of the volcanic origins of the Archipelago. Here, everything is black, this is an extreme example of the tempers of the Earth, in all its splendour. This island is in fact an enormous volcano, 2800 metres high and still in activity. Like every others islands of Cape Verde, Fogo has its own soul, and its tortured landscapes and the particular relations that inhabitants maintain with Nature create an exceptional world. In Fogo, inhabitants are also different. Some of them have blue eyes and are blond haired, these physical contrasts are totally exceptional. Culturally speaking, people are more turned over America than in Santiago island and many persons here left their birth place to settle down in USA.

From the plane to Fogo from Santiago island, the show is already impressive. Enormous, a perfect black cone raises from the sea. By approaching Fogo coasts, we notice an arid and wrinkled ground, that testifies about the fact that here, Nature kept its rights. Numerous small canyons, furrowed by lava outflows during centuries, run from the top of the first crater to the black cliffs of the Coast. This view is surrealistic.

Sao Felipe, the small 7000 inhabitants capital is full of charms. This city is one of the oldest in Cape Verde. The typically colonial architecture and some rich and old villas testify about the past economical prosperity of the place, at the beginning of colonisation. Nowadays, this city is not a main pole in the Archipelago, but having a walk in the clean and quiet streets is always a pleasure, appreciating by the same time the great show offered by the flashy coloured facades. Some colonial edifices are very well conserved but others are completely released, that may create in some parts an impression of sadness. Sao Felipe, like in most of cities in Cape Verde, kept its convivial and authentic atmosphere with small markets, old fashioned shops and picturesque bars. At night, music resonates in every bar and getting acquainted with some locals is inevitable. At the bottom of Sao Felipe is a long black sandy beach that reminds which kind of island Fogo is. A walk along the black sand and a turquoise sea offers unique visions. This place is hypnotizing, in spite of the fact that having a swim here is dangerous, because of enormous waves and powerful streams.

Fogo is characterised by several aspects : the strong declivity of its versants, an arid landscape in the South-west part ( where is located Sao Felipe ) contrasting with the relative greenness of the Northern-East part, around Mosteiros city, on the other side of the volcano. The high spot in Fogo is definitely the Caldeira. By the centre of the Island stands a first enormous crater drawn like an arc. Inside, the ground caved in and created a kind of high plain, 8 kilometres large and called Cha da Caldeira. The abrupt difference of level is quite impressive. At the centre of this plain stands the active volcano. This cone, which is in fact located in the first former crater, is more recent. Black, massive, menacing, the last eruption occurred in 1995. The inhabitants ( always incredibly open minded and helpful ) of the two small villages situated inside the Caldeira, inside the first crater and at the bottom of the active cone, dont take the volcano like a fatality. In 1995, during the eruption, they weren't that worry and didn't want to leave their homes. They were finally forced to do it by the Authorities and were allowed to return only 2 months after. Inside the Caldeira is like another planet. As far as the eye can see spread lava fields creating the magical impression to have a walk on the Moon. The two nice villages, Portela and Bangueira, are mostly built in lava stones and those black small edifices, at the middle of a black landscape confirm the feeling to be out of space and time. In these villages is also produced a very good wine. The ground, austere and dry but rich, allows vineyards culture. A traveller can find there an accommodation in a private habitation, with a very basic comfort ( but what an experience ! ). Recently, a French guy named Patrick ( a character in Fogo ) opened a small pension, more comfortable, inside the Caledeira. To get at the top of the active cone is difficult, very dangerous and takes at least 3 hours. Stones are not stable, ground is slippery, the declivity is extreme ( almost vertical climbing around the crater ) and hotness is not helpful. But once at the top, what an award ! The show is fabulous. From here, we can admire the whole high plain and evaluate how the ground was damaged by numerous lava outflows, more or less recent. At that moment, up to a clouds sea, clouds were getting slowly inside the valley, enveloping the first crater step by step. Inside the cones crater, flowers of sulphur and fumaroles testify of the activity of the place. Contrary to the climbing, getting down is very easy and fun. Just need to ski with walking shoes on the thousands small volcanic stones that were so disturbing during the climbing. Getting back to Sao Felipe is rather easy by a collective taxi, for a 2-hours trip, but once back in the small Capital, the feeling to be arriving from an interplanetary journey is strong !

Mixed with love and hate between human beings and Nature, Fogo remains a wonderful and mysterious World, full of contrasts at several levels. Its like all the elements ( water, fire, stone ) were grouped here on purpose to create an unique wonder, so amazing.

* AFTER YOU HAVE READ THIS ARTICLE, TO KNOW MORE ABOUT CAPE VERDE, VISIT THE RELATING ARTICLES ON THIS SITE :

Cape Verde : Presentation and Santiago Island : http://www.worldisround.com/articles/6739/index.html

Boa Vista, the sand island: http://www.worldisround.com/articles/6740/index.html

Santo Antao, the wild island: http://www.worldisround.com/articles/6741/index.html

Sao Vicente, the music island : http://www.worldisround.com/articles/6743/index.html