Sao Vicente Island is resplendent, not really for its hostile relief but more regarding the ambiance and happiness that reigns here. Island of carnivals, festivals and moving night life, Sao Vicente is a permanent show where music, that express so many meanings and feelings in Cape Verde, is a part of the local way of life.

In spite of a difficult colonization due to a real lack of water, and a small size, Sao Vicente is the second pole of the Archipelago. From the airport, after passing through a desperately dry mountain mass, appears suddenly in a large and natural bay Mindelo city, the second of Cape Verde ( 38 000 inhabitants ). From years to years, Mindelo harbour lost its economical importance, but is still a major stop place for many navigators and commercial boats. This city concentrates all Cape verdian people's love for feast and its atmosphere is magic, since the times of Colonization when sailors already used to spend wild nights in the numerous bars.

Nowadays, the wish of Sao Vicente people to turn over modernity is strong. In Mindelo, that is also the birth place of Cesaria Evora, the famous singer, inhabitants are proud to listen to American varieties and to be dressed following Occidental fashion, as far as their means allow it. On the other hand, a nostalgic perfume reigns in the colonial city centre. Mindelo has this charm of these old fashioned towns that would remind a Southern-American city. Inhabitants of Sao Vicente, according to their way of life are more Latinos rather than African. During the day, a foreigner will become imbued with this relaxed ambiance by walking down colourful streets, edged with colonial edifices and palms, or simply by enjoying breaks in one of the quiets, clean and shady squares. A walk to the top of the neighbouring hills offers a wonderful panorama over the bay and the beach but also shows the other face of Mindelo. Like in Praia, the Capital of Cape Verde located on Santiago Island, poverty here is especially striking because more concentrated than in the rest of the Archipelago. Along red and dry mountain sides spreads a great suburb, composed by shanty-towns and precarious habitations, reminding those poor districts we find in big Brazilian cities. In Cape Verde, life is difficult even for inhabitants of relatively big towns

If Mindelo counts a bit more pickpockets and money askers than in the rest of the Archipelago, there are no frequent safety problems here. It is funny to listen to locals from the others islands talking about Mindelo as cut-throat locality because of minor thieving. Streets, even at night and in any district, remain very safe compared to an Occidental city and appears like a peaceful place to a visitor. Inhabitants are of course very talkative and a tourist will find in people the same kindness and indolence that makes Cape Verde so particular. By 5 oclock in the afternoon, it is a good experience to have a drink in one of the picturesque bars around the Fish Market, sitting on woody cases. At that time, fishermen getting back from work ( fishing is one of the main activity in Sao Vicente ), to fill in suddenly the place for (a) last(s) drink(s). Then, the ambiance becomes quite agitated, noisy and fun. In five minutes, a foreigner will know the whole bar. A bit later, Grog ( the strong national drink that may turn you mad ! ) helping, the traveller will be introduced to so many persons that the day after, he will know the almost entire local population. After that, no way to rely on a bit of intimacy. At night, everybody will insist to make a tourist (especially on his own ) enjoy the amazing night life of Mindelo. Praca Nova Square is a meeting point where groups step by step the whole Mindelese youth. A small kiosk-bar ensure the starting drinks before to leave to one of the several discos. Young women in this city, especially around Praca Nova, are rather comely and every male tourist will be a seducer. They are a part of the good atmosphere here, it can be funny but dangerous for naïve foreigners. To If the majority of those girls are not really prostitutes, most of them would appreciate the money rather than the beauty of a foreigner's eyes, relying on his generosity to take them to discos, restaurants, taxis etc and eventually get more. There are no laws prohibiting to go further in the affinities but in that case, a male Westerner has to keep in mind that a passport, plane tickets or money are temptations sometimes stronger than love

The rest of Sao Vicente does not correspond to the image that gives Mindelo. Everywhere rise dry and aggressive crests and the lack of water did not favour the installation of others villages or cities. Crossing the island creates a barren feeling, the landscape being almost entirely desert and villages quite rare. A trek to Monte Verde, the highest top of Sao Vicente, offers an impressive general view over the whole island. On the sky line stands Sao Antao Island, enveloped by clouds testifying of an advantageous climate compared to the dry desolation of Sao Vicente.

In the western part of the island is located Baia Das Gatas, a succession of two large bays, that is a very popular place to inhabitants. Turquoise water, neighbouring mountains tops enveloped by clouds and a permanent sun makes this place attractive, but the main interest of Baia das Gatas consists in the famous yearly music festival that occurs here by the beginning of August. During 3 days and 3 nights, Baia das Gatas is crowded 24 hours and thousands people rush there for this occasion. This cultural event, one of the most famous in Africa, could almost be compared to a tropical Woodstock. On the beach, entire families pitched their bivouac ( some for more than one week ) forming an inextricable and temporary village. At night, ambiance is folkloric. The numerous temporary bars and restaurants, raised for the occasion all around the bay, definitely confirm the impression to be into an improvised city. Around the scene, where is played traditional as well as modern music ( the favourites are reggae and funky or zouk music ) it is better do not be scared of crowd baths to be able to approach the artists. It is important to move everywhere in this out-of-space area to enjoy fully those crazy nights. By walking, being careful to drunk persons sleeping on the ground at the middle of the crowd, various encounters reserve many surprises The whole set of Cape Verde, and certainly from others African countries is here. The party continues in a good-humoured debauchery until the next afternoon when things are getting slow, to restart powerfully by the evening.

This event represents well the atmosphere that reigns generally in Sao Vicente, where are concentrated in extreme Capeverdian conviviality and love for feast. A local proverb says that the ones who didn't visit Mindelo don't know Cape Verde. By getting involved in this exceptional ambiance, a foreigner can fully be agree with this.

AFTER YOU HAVE READ THIS ARTICLE, KNOW MORE ABOUT CAPE VERDE WITH THE RELATING ARTICLES ON THIS SITE :

Cape Verde : Presentation and Santiago Island : http://www.worldisround.com/articles/6739/index.html

Boa Vista, the sand island: http://www.worldisround.com/articles/6740/index.html

Santo Antao, the wild island: http://www.worldisround.com/articles/6741/index.html

Fogo, the lava island : http://www.worldisround.com/articles/6742/index.html