We stop for lunch along the river where I have the opportunity to get a photo of a couple Islamic girls. They are very shy but somewhat intrigued by the camera. At first they run away at the idea of getting themselves photographed but in the end they agree (27). As we drive along the mountains are more dramatic, with fewer villages, and rougher terrain (28-30). We stop for the night in a beautiful meadow area with a stream running through the campsite. Just to the north is an abandoned home site (31-34). We are camping at 3,500 meters. Some of us go for a walk and others rest to adjust to the altitude. As we hang around the camp kids from the surrounding area come over for a look at us. They are a rough group, asking for pens or sugar, but also trying to get a feel for whom we are.
Day 6 We are up early with the sun and have a great breakfast of paranthas cooked by Anil. We do a bit more exploring as we wait and then we head out for Padam. As we come around the mountain, about 3km from camp we see a glacier, massive ice wall melting into the river, which borders the road (35). All day we travel through rugged country with an occasional check point where we must sign in on forms as to who we are and where we are going. We have a permit to travel in this area and people are tracked as they travel along these roads. We stop at Rangdun, a checkpoint on a plateau just before the monastery of the same name. Rangdun is an extremely desolate place; the cold wind blew harshly down from the mountain, through this small community, and through our shawls and jackets. We took refuge across from the hotel (36), in a tent-restaurant where we had dal and rice for lunch, topping it off with chai. Driving out of the town one can see the monastery situated on a hilltop in the distance (37). As we drive by kids are playing in the street near a gate, which must be raised in order for us to drive on. Young monks, sitting on the wall wave as we drive by.
Not much farther up the road we go over Pense La, a pass, which marks our entry into the Buddhist area of Zanskar (38-39). At this point we have about five hours left of our drive. We go deeper and deeper into Zanskar Valley with the scenery changing with every turn, always more remote, more dramatic (40). We reach the small village of Scagum (41), the home of our Zanscar guide, Rig-Jen. He is very excited to introduce us to his family and share some tea with us. Scagum is a typical village, situated at the base of the mountains, with green fields all about. We have a very warm and friendly meeting with the family. Rig-Jens mother and sister make tea and bring in biscuits as well. They show us their home (42-43).
In the winter the family lives in the kitchen, which is the only heated room in the house. The animals are brought into the lower level of the house where they are protected from the weather and provide a little heat to the lower level. The road is closed at Kargil and there is no road traffic into this valley. The life here is very difficult and people have to be strong to survive. If someone is ill the only way to get medical care is to walk along the frozen Zanskar River to Leh, about an 8-10 day trip. As we left the village many villagers came to meet us and to see us off (44-45).
We leave and head for Padam, which will be our home-base for three nights, taking day trips to Monasteries, the famous cave where Naropa meditated, an ancient palace, and to Karsha, a monastery hosting its annual festival with traditional Tibetan dances.
We have rooms in probably the best guesthouse in Padam. It is basic, the usual hard beds but with heavy blankets to keep us warm at night. Padam has been without electricity for over a week. No chance of hot water. We eat dinner by candlelight, as does the whole town. In addition, propane supplies are low and vegetables are at a premium. Padam feels like the American old west, complete with an occasional Tibetan riding by in traditional dress, seated on a wooden saddle, on a small Tibetan horse. The streets are dirt and everything is dusty from the winds blowing the dry soil about the valley.
Day 7
Today we drive out of Padam and head for the end of the road to the village of Zangla. This is literally the end of the road. If you want to go anywhere from here it is over the mountains. People actually do trek over the mountains at this point to get to Leh. On the outskirts of the village there is the ancient Zangla Palace, which later adds on a monastery, on the top of a surrounding mountain. We can drive the jeep up most of the way and then we walk to the palace. The local ruling family had occupied the palace until recent history. HH the Dalai Lama made a visit here and asked the prince to move to his residence into town where is would be safer for him to live. The palace home was falling into disrepair. There is an amazing view of the valley from this vantage point, looking back westward toward Padam and then easterly over the village to the nunnery on the other side of the village (46-48). Because of the attached monastery, the palace is known to have many stupas around it most of which line the walkway up to the site.
We have a picnic at the fort and then drive over to the nunnery. In the village Felizitas stops by the royal family home as she has brought them gifts and photos from her last visit in the area. Its a short stop as the prince isnt home. We continue to the Nunnery where we share tea with the nuns, get a tour of the grounds and look through a photo album, which chronicles its recent history. There is a school here and as we walk up children are out in a garden area, learning math. There is a monk who has come here to teach but probably wont stay more than a few months (49).
As we head back to Padam, we stop by Thonde Monastery. This is a large monastery, situated on a mountaintop with grounds that are well kept and somewhat spread out (50-52). There are a few small gardens areas. Interestingly, Will finds a toilet, which is built as an outhouse. It is a small building on posts with the hole in the floor over an abyss, which drops far down the mountainside.
While we are visiting the monastery the sun begins to set behind the westerly mountains (53-54). The rays of the sun are beautiful as they spread through the valley sky. When we get down to the main road we take one more photo of Thonde Monastery from the main road.
Back at Padam we eat a delicious Tibetan meal of momos and noodles with vegetables. It is cold at night and the wind blows through the restaurant walls as we eat by candlelight.
Day 8 Today we leave Padam to the west to visit Zangkhul and Karsha. To get to Zangkhul we drive back along the Stod River, and take a left into the country. We travel along a rough road with switchbacks up and into a mountain valley. Then we walk to the small monastery and temple, Zangkhul. It is built at the site of a cave where the famous Naropa was reputed to have meditated for years. Once at the monastery we must continue to walk up a steep rocky path to reach the entrance of the cave. The cave is an amazing place, small in size, big enough for four or five of us to stand in and about five feet in height. There is an opening, which falls out to the cliffs below and just above this one can see a footprint on the ceiling. It is said that Naropa pushed off here as he left the cave and flew away (55-59). From here we drive to Karsha. It is the largest monastery in the area and is hosting its annual festival which starts today at 1:00. Of course nothing is certain here. It may start at noon, or today may be practice dancing for the main ceremony tomorrow. As we come into the town things are bustling. We park and make our way up a rather long path to the top where the main temple is and where the event takes place. There are some visiting Tibetans from local villages also making their way up to the temple. At times it is difficult to know which turn to take among the buildings but basically we are shown the way by pointing fingers and smiles. Will is always a subject of attention because of his size (now about 62) and youthful appearance.
We are in luck; we get to the temple in time as the first dances and music begin. Today is in fact the beginning of the festival. I do not know the names of the dances nor the subject matter but ones attention is easily held by the energy of the dances, the masks, and costumes, and the audience. The most exciting moment for me was when about 8 dancers came down some stairs dressed like skeletons. The young monks and children were all excited some scared and even moved back a little so as not to be touched by them (60-67).
Following the festival we went back to Padam to refresh ourselves and in the late afternoon we took a short drive to Sani Monastery. The most interesting aspect of this monastery is a Stupa inside the enclosure, which dated back to the 2nd century A.D (68). It is said to have a relic of the Buddha in it. Sani is along the main road and is situated in a lovely small village. It was nearing sunset and a half dozen people meandered by, coming home from the fields or from visiting neighbors.
Day 9
Today we leave the area early (69) and plan to drive the whole 225 km. to Kargil. The weather is warmer on the way back so quite a bit more pleasant. We have some car trouble and stop so Anil can fix a separated exhaust pipe. Just to the side of the road there are women working with dung to produce fuel for the winter (70). It is actually very nice to see the sights of Zanskar Valley again (71).
As we arrive in Kargil around 9:30 p.m. the second jeep breaks down. Tomorrow Felizitas will work out the details of getting the jeeps fixed so we can start the next leg of the journey from Kargil to Leh and back home via the Chumatang Plateau.
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