I arrived in beautiful, and quieter, Lusaka after a lengthy bus ride from Lilongwe via Chapata and booked myself into a 5-day tour down the Zambezi checking out hippos and all the other river wildlife.

In my haste to get to the backpackers in the dark on arrival (there is a little bit of crime in Lusaka) I fell down one of the all too common gaping holes in the footpath and miraculously escaped with only scraped knees - my backpack was too big so I was saved from descending to the sewers as I ... (more)