After attaching the leg rope on my left foot, I excitedly took up the Malibu-style surfboard and waded into the swell. It was almost like in a trance and I was touched so deeply because by holding up my surfboard, I knew right at that moment, I was living my dream, and I was going out surfing!

First of all to get a balancing point on the board was not as easy as I had thought, very quickly I flipped over, right after surfacing and getting a deep breath in, another wave rolled over hammering me down and I was ducked in the water ... (more)