We had a good look around the town, realised we could not see the Reed islands; cursed the seppos; then decided what to do. We were planning to go to the Isla Del Sol, and did some investigating. It was cold and wet, and we eventually made our way down to lake Titicaca. In all honesty, it wasnt as scenic as I expected and I was not really charmed by Copocobana. It is a run down Bolivian town that has a Euro-trash culture (with the tourists, not locals) who I guess stay there because it is so cheap. Anyway, we could not be there without swimming, so we stripped down and dove in ahhh cold cold cold locals thought we were nuts; locals were right; but we enjoyed ourselves!!!

We met a German tourist, who it appeared took a liking to blue eyed matt and had trouble shaking him. Anyway, sitting down after our swim we saw the first SA scam occur. The Spanish girls sitting next to us had not secured their bags. Some kids came up, dropped something the other side of the table, they all looked there, other kids took their bags and were off in a jiffy. Couldnt believe how quick it happened and no way of catching them. It was very bad for the girls, but taught us a good lesson never to ie complacent!!!

We later ran into our seppo friends from the Inca trail and had diner. Went to the disco thing with Mat but was a bit of a hippie euro trash druggie hang out which is not my scene so went home. Next day was wet and cold again so like big girls, we decided against Isla de Sol and caught a bus to La Paz.

By the way, here was where we ran into a Brit couple, a DJ and his GF who were travelling Sth America. About 1.5 months later I ran into them on the street in Porto Seguro small world!!

Now this bus ride is scenic. Bolivia truly has some amazing landscapes. We got a river barge crossing and not to long after (ha well a few hrs) arrived at the top of the mountains over looking La Paz. It is a fantastic view and I am really glad we decided to come to La Paz (we were going to skip it). The ride down the escarpment was made up of amazing scenery and steep steep road.

We found our hostel, across from San Pedro prison and explored the city. I really liked this place. It is cheap, the people are very very friendly and it is a totally South American city experience (if there is such a thing). One thing about Bolivia is it is the poorest country in South America and is very prone to strikes from the coco growers as we were to find out (later for that anyway).

While the people are friendly, you have to be careful and it didnt take us long to catch a grab and run stalker, well stalking us. We made it pointedly clear we had seen him, but he continued his hunt. It was almost comical as we would stop and stare directly at us, and he would stop and turn pretending to look at something, keeping us in the corner of our vision. We eventually shaked him and went to the markets. These things are HUGE and we literally got lost in them. Picked up another stalker first time in our lives we had been popular so didnt mind too much and continued to explore the city

The local kids were in a water filled balloon throwing festival, which seemed to be aimed at every pretty girl. Standing out like dogs . We were very aware we would be the perfect target so were especially careful!! Matt and I had to get visas so we found the Brazilian embassy and submitted out passports. Saw our first Brazilian lady there and oh my . Ok calm down!!!!!!

Met the Americans again and had dinner. We planned to do San Pedro prison on the Thursday. San Pedro prison is where a Brit Drug smuggler was held but was like no there prison. It was like a small city, where the prisoners families lived and kids went to school from, and prisoners had to support themselves. Anyway, he started tours, where you could bribe the guard, get a tour and but arts and crafts from the prisoners. One of the highlights of Bolivia. We had to wait until Thursday for that and were really keen (Read Marching Powder which is the book on this - fascinating!!).

Anyway, the next day the demonstrations started. They got more and more bios tress and the police refused to stop them. The government called the Army in to stop the protest, which the police resented. Anyway, long story cut short, the police and Army started fighting each other (yes, for real) and were shooting each other. Then you had the protesters who were doing their thing, and they blocked off all roads in and out with stones and violence.

We followed the riots everywhere and saw some amazing things groups of protestors being charged by police and running crazy away from them, where we had to join in to get away, then the police and army shooting at each other literally, then shooting tear gas at the protestors. We got caught by tear gas and although Ando and I had experienced it before (NOT pleasant) it was Matts initiation into the joys of this crowd disperser. We had many laughs (while coughing and half blinded) watching Matts reactions to it. (Eventually we told him what to do to lesson it, but not until we had our fun!!). Anyway, it was at this stage that we saw the police officer shot in the head by the military that we decided to hightail it back to our hostel.

By that night the city was on fire and the streets chaos. The next day we went to find the Aussie Consulate to find out what to do and register ourselves to be confronted by a note saying closed and please ring the Embassy in Brazil!!!! Anyway, after being baffled by that bit of genius, we wandered down the British one, registered and got an update on the situation. We avoided the gangs of protestors on the way back. Anyway, our hopes of San Pedro were destroyed as the prison was now of fire and surrounded by police. We got a few snaps and had an interesting night in the hostel.

The next day we managed to make our escape by planes (Ando had a very interesting ride to the airport, as he left earlier, as his car got stopped by protestors and he had to hike the last few kms in good for his waistline anyway).

While I have written the above as an interesting story (for me anyway) please dont feel I have a negative view of Bolivians. They were extremely friendly, hospitable and, never targeted us at all in these riots. In fact, while we were following the troubles, they would often tell us quick, this way for us to get away, or tell us not to go closer as it could be more dangerous etc. They went out of their way to look after us!!

I was really impressed by them as people. Sure the country has problems, but we cannot judge it on incidents like these their problems are very complicated and the people very poor . I would really like to go back to Bolivia and La Paz and think it is a real gem of a country, so dont be put off by this, just realise, demonstrations are frequent and you may get stick there for a few extra days like we did! All part of the experience.

Anyway, we eventually made it too the airport, and flew to Brazil (with the hosties with the mosties!! ) where we met up in Rio, Copocobana/Impanema beach. Read on if u dare in the Rio section!!

Argentina

Awesome place. You are probably getting sick of that word in my SA writings, but ha I like it there so much. I planned to travel around Argentina, but got caught up in Buenos Aires. What a fantastic city. I stayed in downtown initially which I really liked, but the better areas are Recoleta and Palermo. Problem is they are not as near to Kilkennys haha. I met up with some great people in Argentina Joel (USA), the Israeli (ha we called him that), Raja (Indian), the Mexican, a few others and me.

The city is more European than others in SA, but is very scenic and has a crazy crazy nightlife. Some discos start around 1 or 2 am and finish 11 am. The people here are really really friendly and you never sit for eg at a bar for long without someone coming to talk to you. While it s a bit sad from travel point of view, I just got caught up in having a good time in BA and didnt go anywhere else. I seriously considered moving here (is very very cheap with the currency devaluation) and you can have such a great life here. Anyway, have been here three times now and still think its one of the best cities in the world and that the people are some of the best as well come if u dare but you wont want to leave!!