Make sure that you visit Vienna! Don't be afraid of its size or anything - it is totally tourist friendly.

Since we had our seats reserved on the night train from Luzern, it was very simple to find our car and seats on the train to Vienna. Another gentleman, a businessman from Vienna, was also in our compartment but he soon moved and so we were successful in keeping the compartment to ourselves all night. There is a trick to this: Keep the shades drawn and during stops, pretend that you are asleep and new passengers will not disturb you if there is enough room on the rest of the train. Except for frequent checks of Eurail Passes and Passports, we could have slept quite well on the seats which fold down to make a bed across the compartment.

Upon arrival, we cashed some traveler's checks and checked our luggage, accept for one bag of essentials, and arranged for our lodging over the phone. (TIP: Put enough money into the phone or else the connection will keep disconnecting.)

The walk to our lodging took fifteen minutes from West Bahnoff. The room was very large with twin beds plus another single bed, sink, 2 end tables, closet, table and chairs, hot plate and dishes. The WC (water closet) was across the hall which was no problem. Frau Hedwig was extremely helpful by supplying us with maps, guides, advice on transportation tickets, museums, and events; all of which provided us with the means to a wonderful two days in Vienna - a city which should NOT be missed and someday we hope to return.

The transportation system of Vienna, as in most European cities, with their trams, buses, subways and trains is very easy to understand and covers the entire city and suburbs expertly and don't be intimidated by it. Only thing is, people run for their next connection and you'd better not be in their way! On the subway, for instance, keep to the right of the escalator to let those who are in a hurry bound around you!

Thirst: For some reason it was quite difficult to quench one's thirst and maybe that was because of all the walking we did. But we seemed to be constantly thirsty, so it is very important to carry water bottles along.

This is the absolutely elegant Spanish Riding School, built in 1572 and home of the famous Lipizzan Horses. Some lady was walking around selling tickets so we avoided a long wait in a long line. The Baroque hall is white rococo with statuary and crystal chandeliers.

The horses were beautiful and elegant, however, since this was only practice we feel that they may have been the "second stringers" since none were the pure white stallions that are seen in all of the pictures and the actual performances. And, although we were there for 45 minutes, none of them jumped - a feat for which they are known for all over the world.

After the Spanish Riding School, we then made our way to Graben Strasse, reached through a very narrow street (the street where you will find the Anne Frank Museum). Upon reaching Graben Strasse, suddenly the city of Vienna came alive to us. Hundreds of people were milling around and sitting in the many cafes flanking either side of this pedestrian-only street. In the middle of all this there was a Tyrolean Band playing music to the delight of the crowd. We found a cafe, had lunch and enjoyed our surroundings while also feeding the sparrows and wrens. The band was playing next to the Plague Column a memorial to 75,000 to 150,000 people who died of the Black Plague in 1679.

This is the "Riesenrad" meaning giant wheel in Prater Park. It is 209' high and was built in 1897. You can't say you've been to Vienna unless you've ridden on The Wheel.

Destroyed during WWII in 1945, the wheel was rebuilt in 1945. Each cabin holds about twenty people.

The Danube River where we strolled its banks and enjoyed the vast park at that location. Nearby we also viewed the United Nations or "Uno-City" as it is called.

Pictures were, of course, not allowed inside the Palace. There were magnificently opulent tapestries, inlaid tables, rosewood furniture, huge painted porcelain stoves, the marble, rococo walls with gold gilt everywhere, the Bohemian crystal chandeliers, etc. The tour guides were great, adding very interesting anecdotes as we went along, such as his opening remarks: "The Palace has 50 guides and they are all going around in circles inside because of the crowd here today. Maria Theresa built the castle much too small." (There were 45 rooms open to public view out of 1441 rooms.) "At the moment 2/3 of Germany is touring the castle - they haven't seen it since 1938!"

During WWII an allied bomb hit the Palace but didn't explode. It did, however, destroy the floors it dropped through including 1/2 of the magnificent Hall of Mirrors. All has been restored. The guide also told us that during the war the paintings and treasures of Austrian Vienna were moved to the Salt Mines near Salzburg for safety (see the Salt Mine in Salzburg).

The Palace is HUGE! There are also expansive gardens of seasonal flowers, rose bushes and 30' high manicured hedges.

There were so many people here at the Statsoper that jammed their way into one door that Bob had to hold on to me lest we got separated. The opera "Electra" was being premiered that night and so they had a giant on stage. The chandeliers were magnificent!!

Musikverein, is the home of the Vienna Philharmonic and is the site of the annual New Year's Day concerts. (Sorry to say, it was closed.)

Stadtpark or Strauss Park. Here we sat at a cafe and enjoyed a small Strauss Orchestra playing in a small vine-covered band shell playing; what else - Strauss Waltzes. What a lovely relaxing way to enjoy an afternoon. What a life - wrap it up and we'll take it home!

The Vienna Woods (a suggestion of Frau Hedwig). First a train and then a bus. We traveled through Grinzing, the Greenwich Village of Vienna. (Next time we'll have to take in Grinzing - so small, so quaint with one cafe after another for wine and music and laughter. The longer we were in Vienna, the more often we said, "Next time".) Our trip to the Vienna Woods, high on a hill, afforded us a view of the entire city of Vienna and to the east, Czechoslovakia, across the Danube.

(This was May, 1989 and Czechoslovakia was still behind the Iron Curtain. In November, 1989 the home of my ancestors was again free.) Needless to say, it was quite a thrill to know that I was looking toward Bratislava from where I stood, not ever thinking in my wildest dreams that ten years later we'd visit Prague.