The Pindari and the Kafni glaciers in the Kumaon Himalayas in Uttaranchal are easily accessible and are very popular amongst trekkers. Our journey started from New Delhi. We reached Delhi at night and the next morning we started our bus journey to a place called Ramnagar, the place where the famous Jim Corbett tiger reserve is situated. We did take a jeep Safari to try our luck at spotting tigers but were unlucky. We could not spend too much time at Ramnagar, as we had to proceed on with our journey. We spent the night at Ramnagar and the next morning started our long and tedious bus journey to this place called Bageshwar. On the way to Bageshwar we stopped to visit the famous Baijnath temple. This temple was built by the Katyuri dynasty in the 13th century on the banks of the Gomti river. This temple is known for its very intricate and beautiful carvings. We reached Bageshwar late in the evening. This is a starting point for a lot of treks to some very famous peaks and glaciers in the Kumaon Himalayas. Bageshwar lies at the confluence of the Sharayu and the Gomti rivers and is also a famous pilgrimage town. The actual trek to the glaciers starts from a small village called Saung, which is about a couple of hours from Bageshwar. After spending a night at Bageshwar we started our journey to Saung and then set on our first days hike. We had to walk a distance of about 4 kms to a place called Loharkhet. This camp is at a height of about 5700 feet above MSL. This was just like an acclimatization walk to get all of us into that mood of the hike. The next day was to be pretty long and tiring, as we had to cover a distance of 19 kms. We spent the night at Loharkhet and early the next morning started out on the first leg of our days hike to a place called Dhakuri. The first leg was 11 kms and was very tiring. We went from 5700 feet to 8800 feet. Dhakuri is undoubtedly one of the most scenic camps in the whole route. It is situated in a valley and is surrounded by thick forests on all sides and at a distance toward the north one can get a fabulous view of the peaks of Nanda Khat and Maiktoli. At Dhakuri there is a small monument dedicated to some trekkers who lost their lives on an expedition to the Sunderdunga glacier. At this place we broke for lunch and a bit of rest. Soon we resumed on our second leg of 8 km. This would take us to our night halt camp called Khati, which also happens to be a small village. Khati is at a height of 7250 feet and so our 8km walk was pretty much downhill. Khati is the place from where the routes to the Pindari/Kafni and the Sunderdunga glaciers separate. We were completely exhausted when we reached Khati. Everything ached. Our sacks seemed heavier. But the exhaustion was mixed with a sense of awe at where we were. We went to sleep soon after we had dinner as we had to gear up for another 16kms of hike the next day. We arose the next morning and again set off for the first part of the days hike. This was a distance of 11 kms to a place called Dwali. Dwali is situated at the edge of two valleys in very green and beautiful surroundings. It is at a height of 8450 feet and lies at the confluence of the Pindari and the Kafni rivers. Here the route to the Pindari and the Kafni glaciers splits. The valley to the left leads to the Pindari glacier and the valley to the right leads to the Kafni glacier. We had lunch and a bit of rest at Dwali and then set out on our final leg of the day of 5 kms to a place called Phurkia. Phurkia is at a height of 10,600 feet and so the last 5 kms were killing. From this place one can get an excellent view of the peaks of Nanda Khat and Maiktoli. A lot of people being satisfied with this magnificent sight turn back instead of going any further. We were tired, the cold was adding to our misery. Just then the clouds cleared and nature presented to us these two magnificent peaks of Nanda Khat and Maiktoli and all of us forgot how tired we were and rushed to get our cameras. The view of these peaks is indeed mind blowing. The next day we were to go to the Pindari glacier, which is 7 kms from Phurkia. The walk to the glacier is a series of Kodak moments. There is a variety of flora and fauna around. I couldn't tell you the names, suffice to say that everything was green and beautiful. And of course these two massive peaks were all the time right in front of us. We reached the glacier known as the Zero point at a height of 12,500 feet by noon. There was a little rain by then but that did not stop us from playing in the snow. At zero point there is an ashram of a man who is known as PILOT BABA. No one knows why he is called so. He is said to meditating most of the time somewhere up in the mountains and comes down only in winters. His disciples treated us to some very refreshing herbal tea. We had to start back soon as we had to walk back 12 kms all the way to Dwali since the hike to the Kafni glacier starts from there. We reached Dwali with quite a bit of rain troubling us. We were again very exhausted but we had to mentally gear up for the next day's walk, which was to be the longest in the hike. 13 kms up to the Kafni glacier and 13 kms back down to Dwali. Kafni glacier is also at a height of 12,500 kms and the route to the Kafni glacier was as scenic as the one to the Pindari glacier but there were two marked differences. Firstly, there were numerous landslides along the way, which made it very important for us to complete the hike in time and secondly we had to cross seven minor glaciers. This naturally made the walk more adventurous. We walked as fast as we could but unfortunately had to stop a kilometer or so before the main glacier because of bad visibility and heavy rainfall. There was a humungous glacier where we stopped and after lazing in the snow for some time we started on our way back. We were overjoyed that we could at least go majority of the distance.

Why would a person go all the way up to the Himalayas to walk up and down trails and discover bones and muscles in the body that have been extinct for years. For someone who reads this it will look like a long series of walks but believe me if you want to walk in the clouds then the Himalayas are the place where you need to be. Even a slight glimpse of Nanda Khat and Maiktoli (22,500 and 22,300 feet respectively) inject immense energy into your aching body as you climb. The sight of huge green trees, the little far flung huts and the smoke rising from them, the feel of snow on your face, the biting cold, the possibility of natural calamity, it all adds up and provides you with a high which tells you that you are in a place close to heaven. It is a high like none other and it is all yours.